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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 02-19-2009, 04:00 PM   #1
Angus
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Lowering a FZ1

Is it pretty simple to lower a FZ1 I'm only 5'7 I lowered my Fjr with a set of lowering links and slid the forks up in the triple tree I'm hopeing I can do the same if I buy a FZ1.
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:12 PM   #2
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I did mine last weekend and was very suprised how fast and easy it was. I am not that mechanically inclined either...I'm handy,but no mechanic.
I read all kinds of stuff on this site and another that you shouldnt lower a bike it messes up how it steers, and destroys the cornering and all that technical Others said they had no problems....so I was torn.
I went ahead and did it....I too am inseamed inpaired (5`8") and was making it work but was not a comfortable as I would have liked. I bought the lowering links used so have no idea what brand, guy said they lowered his wifes FZ1 two inches. Newbie me forgot to measure "before & after"
I lowered the front end 1 1/8" per another thread on this site and had my spare side stand shortened to get more of a lean. The bike handles great, I have no issues with that...of course I'm not a leaning off the bike dragging knees kind of rider. My only issue is I can no longer get the bike up on the center stand. Thinking I may try some alterations on that too... I'm now flat footing it and comfy.
A few fuzzy shots FWIW...
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:26 PM   #3
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Thanks that is what I wanted to know.
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:13 PM   #4
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5'7" here. I've always had to learn to deal with the seat height of my bikes. First thing I did when I got my bike home was rip off the lowering links and put the stock ones back on. It was easy, should be just as easy to do the reverse...but I wouldn't do it.
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:01 AM   #5
Falcon 269
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I'm also 5' 7" and 29" inseam and I slightly raised the rear of mine to improve turn in. I want the bike to handle right on the move, not paddling round the parking lot.

If you want to lower, though, and aren't concerned over-much about negative effects on steering and cornering clearance - which I quite understand - please think twice about following the advice to drop the forks through the yokes by 1 1/8".

The most you can go without risking the fender impacting the lower triple on hard compression is 1/2" (10mm).
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Old 02-20-2009, 02:16 AM   #6
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Seat mod and Chippewa's

I had the Fz lowered with link and forks. The change in the handling was dramatic. Not good. Paid again to have it put back. Next had the seat shaved down 1 1/2". Next found a Chippewa boot called the logger light. Very happy with results. I think unless you can afford 1K to do it right leave it be.
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon 269 View Post
The most you can go without risking the fender impacting the lower triple on hard compression is 1/2" (10mm).



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Old 02-20-2009, 08:26 AM   #8
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lowering FZ1

I lowered my FJR 1 inch and dropped the front 8mm and it handled fine rode tons of twisties with no ill effects. I even did deals Gap couple of times rode the FJR 17,000 miles in a year.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:24 AM   #9
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See what I mean...no one can agree, I think a lot of it is just personal choise. I got my info from an old thread here from member named "quantrill" titled" lowering the FZ1" ...it is an old, old thread, try the search function and read some of the threads, the opinions are pretty split.
I'm going to keep mine lowered for now, though per this thread may raise the front to the suggested 1/2" instead of the old thread height of 1 1/8th ". I bought the dog bones with 3 adjustments holes for that very reason. If I change my mind or find issues as I become a better rider I can always go back to stock in the matter of 20 minutes or less. Sounds like you are a more experienced rider than I am so you may notice a handling issue?!? I sure didnt notice one big enough to switch back much less "dramatic".
Thanks Falcon269 and BroHay for the suggestion/info, the 1 1/8th did look like to much but I'm a newbie and thats the info I found on this site...should have asked for more opinions. Thanks again

Enjoy and ride safe
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:45 AM   #10
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Hey Chip,

As you say, personal preference dictates what we each feel most happy with as far as suspension set-up is concerned. We adapt to what we have and ride accordingly.

I haven't gone looking for the old thread you referenced but it's potentially unsafe. That's the trouble with the internerd, there's always a chance that you'll stumble on duff information and treat it as reliable.

Lower the rear end by all means but I'm pleased you're reconsidering the amount of fork pull-through you've got.



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Old 02-20-2009, 09:53 AM   #11
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I shouldn't bother with this, but I will toss out a couple cautions and you do as you like.

The dog bones do more than just hold the a$$ of the bike up.

Their length affects the "effective" spring rate of the rear suspension.

Shorter dog bones will raise the rear of the bike and increase the effective spring rate by about 30%.
Lengthen the dog bones and the effective spring rate is lowered, and by a lot.
The rear will be very soft, making two up riding actually dangerous unless the spring is replaced on the rear shock assembly.

If you measure the distance from the bottom of the lower triple clamp to the top of the dust cover on the top of the fork slider, then subtract the available travel of the front forks, you will get the amount of clearance left.

After you raise the forks that 1-1/8", take the measurements.
Then try to figure out which will hit first, the fork tubes against the triple clamp, the fender against the triple clamp, or the fender against the radiator.

Good Luck.

It can be done, but it requires altering the internals in the fork tubes to shorten the availible travel so hard parts do not contact other hard parts.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:58 AM   #12
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I am 5'6", 29 inch inseam, I have boots with 1 1/2 inch heals.
I'd suggest working on your low speed manuevering, and leave the bike as is....
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:10 AM   #13
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lowering FZ1

I havn't rode a FZ1 yet I may leave it as is was just curious.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
I shouldn't bother with this ...
Glad you did, Glenn, as you raised some important additional points.

I'd overlooked the effects of longer dogbones on the linkage ratio and spring rate. Good catch.

You're right about the fender being lower than the dust seals on top of the fork sliders, so the latter will hit the triples first. Whether the lower part of the fender would hit the rad before the forks bottom out, I don't propose to find out.

An easy way of seeing how much suspension movement you're actually using is to put a zip tie around the fork tube, snug it down against the fork slider dust seal then go ride. Do some hard braking to really compress the forks and then come home and check where that zip tie is relative to the triple tree.

DO NOT TEST THIS WITH YOUR FORKS AT THEIR CURRENT SETTING. Bad things will happen!

My forks are through the yokes by 10mm. The zip tie shows me I have about 12mm of clearance between the fork slider and the triple tree. That tells me two things; first, I'm making good use of the total available fork travel. Second, I have enough in reserve - just - to cope with extreme compression but that's all.

That's why we say 10mm max through the triples!

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Last edited by Falcon 269; 02-20-2009 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:33 AM   #15
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I did the same test on my 03 FZ.

When landing from a wheelie, my zip tie was "just touching" the dust seal.
Not a lot left.LOL.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:38 AM   #16
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Yea, the reason I ripped my dogbones off and put the stock ones back on was the mushy feel that it gave the bike. I'm used to sportbikes and want a good firm sporty suspension, and can deal with tippytoeing at stoplights. Once back to stock form (and with a new non-squared rear tire) the handling is very nice.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:04 PM   #17
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RavenRider...thanks for the added info. I dont know enough about bikes yet to have thought of the things you pointed out glad you took the time to "edjumicate" me. I did actually take my wife for a ride this afternoon, 1/4 mile straight dead end street, but did notice some issues. Afterwards I did make the change from 1 1/8" to the 10mm on the front end. I noticed a significant difference when I took it out solo. Looks like mid summer when the wife is confident that I'm confident on the new bike I will need to go back to stock for riding 2 up. That gives me time to try some of the other "lowering tricks" others have suggested without lowering the bike.
Thanks again to you and BroHay for the help.

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Old 03-29-2009, 12:21 PM   #18
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Whose lowering links did you buy with 3 adjustments? I would like to buy that 3 hole link. Is it set up for 1,2, and 3" lowering?
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:59 AM   #19
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lowering

Will one inch longer dog bones lower the bike one inch if not is there a formula for this.
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Old 04-28-2009, 12:39 PM   #20
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I haven't tried these on an FZ1, but a friend purchased a set for her Kwacker Ninja 500, they seem to be very well made, they are adjustable and they make a set for the FZ1.

http://www.soupysperformance.com/homepage.html
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