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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 2 Service & Maintenance

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Old 11-12-2006, 07:27 AM   #1
Duken4evr
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Reconstituted TB Sync Tutorial

It is some work, but it you right click on the red X, highlight the properties and paste the URL into a new browser window, you can see the pictures. Or, I can just re-do this mess and host them for you Jason's (Kozmic's) original post, reconsituted for the common good of smooth running FZ-1s everywhere!

I just turned 1k miles and thought it might be a good idea to check the balance of my TB’s. I had notice the bike idling a bit rougher (I would not have called it ‘rough’ – just not as smooth as the first time it fired up), and the throttle on/off was a little more noticeable during harder riding. The throttle issue was most notable during high rpm throttle off to on transitioning. So I borrowed a neighbor’s carburetor sync tool and went to town on my brand new fizzy.

I pulled the tank to remove the factory vacuum hoses and install the sync tool hoses. Then I reinstalled the tank at its back, then hung rested the front of the tank on a small piece of wood to leave a little room for my hand to get the screwdriver in there to adjust each TB. The factory hoses were a bit of a pain to get off with the engine cold. They may have been easier to remove if the engine (hence the hoses) was hot. I was confused as to which vacuum hoses to pull to install the tool’s hoses. There are two vacuum hoses off the back of each TB. One hose (what I would call the ‘main’ hose because it is in the middle of each TB) from TB1 goes to TB3, and the same hose on TB2 goes to TB4. Then there is what I would call a secondary vacuum hose that links all TB’s together and then to a sensor. I opted to install the sync tool on to the ‘secondary’ points. My logic was that the sensor hoses where probably needed less than the other hoses for normal operation. If this was wrong, I may have to re-tune the bike. It really didn’t look like it would matter which one I used, but I did get an engine light while running the bike (which went away the first time I started the bike up with the factory hoses re-attached).

Here is the whole bike with the tank lifted:



This is what you get to look forward to with the tank removed:



Under the tank again, but a little closer (the arrows indicate the vacuum hose I pulled off the 'secondary' vacuum ports):



Carburetor sync tool hoses hooked up:



Fired up the bike and here is what my TB’s looked like (note the difference in the high and low readings – there should be no more than half of a notch variance between any two TB’s):



Here is a shot of the #2 TB adjustment screw looking through the space below the main section of the left leg side of the frame:



Another shot of the #2 TB adjustment screw (same angle different lighting):



Here is my hand in there under the tank with the screwdriver. The hardest adjustment screws to get to were #3 and #4, but they were not impossible. I had to look through the small space below the main section of frame on each side of the bike to see what I was doing. I would slide the screwdriver in while looking through the top, then adjust my position so I could look through the lower space.



These tools should be considered a requirement if the term ‘easy’ plans to be used as any part of a person's description of this job.




The screwdriver (even my XL-sized hands could get to the adjustment screws using this one):




The hose clamps (Have to be very careful with these! They can rip a vacuum hose if you are not careful):



The results! I am very satisfied with my work.



I also adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable (second time - not that it went bad, I just didn't take enough out the first time) and checked the chain slack (still within spec after the first adjustment at 500 mi). When I got everything back together and started the bike, I could immediately tell it was running smoother. I let it warm up again and took it around the block. The bike runs smoother and the throttle on/off has been minimized.

A job well worth spending the time doing!
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Whew! Use Photobucket for all your "red X free" free photo hosting needs. Everything else just plain sucks.

I hope everyone finds this information useful. I know I do. Enjoy!!
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:35 AM   #2
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Thanks for the pictures!!!!
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Old 11-12-2006, 01:48 PM   #3
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What carb sync tool is that?
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:09 PM   #4
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What is it that you're syncing? The only thing you would actually be doing is adjusting the idle since you can't actually sync the bodies to each other. That should all be taken care of electronically and require nothing on your part. Somebody enlighten me...
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gottaride
What is it that you're syncing? The only thing you would actually be doing is adjusting the idle since you can't actually sync the bodies to each other. That should all be taken care of electronically and require nothing on your part. Somebody enlighten me...
Okay... you're way wrong. You are synching the throttle bodies to each other (in terms of the amount of vacuum they pull), just like you would on a carbureted bike.
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
What is it that you're syncing?

The throttle bodies....

Synching the TB's is part of the routine maintenance on my FJR. I imagine it's the same with the new FZ.
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:34 PM   #7
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What carb sync tool is that?
Looks like a Motion Pro sync tool. They cost about $80
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:57 PM   #8
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Hmmmmm, I thought the bodies on fuel injected bikes were electronically synched. I had no idea you still had to manually adjust them. Guess you learn something new every day.
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Old 11-12-2006, 06:50 PM   #9
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Duke, thanks for the post. .
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Old 11-12-2006, 07:18 PM   #10
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Does the FZ1 require the 6mm adapter for Carb Tuners?
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Old 11-17-2006, 10:27 AM   #11
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That procedure only checks/adjusts the idle balance. Did you also check the balance at say....4,000 RPM? That would tell you if the linkage between the throttle bodies needs attention.

Mick
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Old 11-17-2006, 11:45 AM   #12
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Sticky material :nice:
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:26 PM   #13
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Thanks for the repost
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Old 11-18-2006, 08:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwmick
That procedure only checks/adjusts the idle balance. Did you also check the balance at say....4,000 RPM? That would tell you if the linkage between the throttle bodies needs attention.

Mick
That's true! It's naive to think that eventually the mechanical linkage of the TBs won't need adjusting also, just like we have always done on multi-carb set ups, although Yamaha's FZ1 manual says...
CAUTION! DO NOT move the Throttle Valve Adjusting Screws when performing the TB sync.

Roger
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Old 11-18-2006, 11:48 AM   #15
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Can somebody tell me which lines to unplug to perform the synch?
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Old 11-18-2006, 07:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgaj1
Can somebody tell me which lines to unplug to perform the synch?
Yeah, the manual isn't even real clear in their instructions. It just says to remove the "Synchronizing Hoses". I believe those to be the pair that link the TBs together, thus removing them before installing the sync tool would leave four exposed port nipples to connect to. I also believe the other Intake Air Pressure Sensor hose should stay connected to the sensor during the adjustment procedure, although it actually may not make a bit of difference in the final vacuum balance adjustments.

Having the "IAP" or "MAP" sensor disconnected, or on most other vehicles, the Fuel Pressure Regulator disconnected from it's vacuum source will make the engine run either much too rich or too lean, possibly causing unstable vacuum readings making it very difficult to sync the Throttle Bodies accurately.
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Last edited by TheRepairMan; 11-19-2006 at 06:19 AM.
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Old 11-18-2006, 08:17 PM   #17
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After looking at the service manual, I think Repairman is right. Man that drawing is ridiculous in the service manual!
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #18
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Dumb question, but since you don't have to use a 6mm adapter, what do you use to connect the vacuum lines from the throttle body to the carb synch guage?
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:09 AM   #19
TheRepairMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgaj1
Dumb question, but since you don't have to use a 6mm adapter, what do you use to connect the vacuum lines from the throttle body to the carb sync guage?
You answered your own question ...I think. Looks like we will need 4 6mm adaptors and some 6mm vac hose. I'm going to say that most well stocked Auto parts stores will have everything on hand, although I haven't started my search yet. Some carb sync tools may have vacuum adaptors and different size hoses with the kit or available as an accessory. I Googled "Vacuum Nipples" ...that produced some interesting results but nothing that would help us here.

Another thing the manual says is to use Cylinder #3 vacuum reading as your target value and not to change it, rather bringing the other three cylinders up or down to match. Whether that makes a big bunch of difference one way or another I couldn't say.

rb
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Last edited by TheRepairMan; 11-19-2006 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:55 AM   #20
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I bought the Motion Pro tool from Ivan. I was going to buy the 6mm adapters and he said that they are not needed on the 06. He said just plug the hoses into the nipples. I was looking at the drawings and pictures, and it looks like once you disconnect the hoses, you will only have 2 nipples to plug in.
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