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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance > Gen 2 Exhausts, Fueling & Performance

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Old 06-20-2006, 03:49 PM   #1
Lars
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YAMAHA'S ANSWER TO POWERCOMMANDER IS ON YOUR FZ1 *YEHAA*

I just found this on R1 board, i cant get my arms down.
You can actually go into your display and ajust you fuel/air mixture. It's the same procedure as the R1 and the R6

Press both the reset and select while turning ignition on. Hold the bottens down for 8 seconds. WUPPA YOUR IN YOUR POWERCOMMANDER, sort of.

Now you can with the two buttons change between two menus. DI that is the diagnostic and CO that is the fuel ratio.

Choose the CO and again hold both buttons down until a click is heard. Now C:01 is dispayed then again you can choose from C:01 till C:04 If you chose to see how C:01 is press both butons again mine was -05 in C:01 Press both again and your back where you can choose C:01 till C:04
As you se can below the C:02 is the fuel amount in the lower rews and i'll bet that's reasing why we have throttle snatch

BE WERY CAREFULL TO WRITE ALL DOWN
Mine Was
C:01 -5
C:02 20
C:03 20
C:04 4


Fuel injection Adjustment

Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:

Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed

Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed

Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening

Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal condition. It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.



Guidelines for setting

Code C1:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed:
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during races. Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.

Code C2:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting changes.

Code C3:
At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.

Code C4:
At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle. Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown. Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended. In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1 to 2% at a time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.



Here is a few links

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showt...0&pagenumber=1

http://www.cappojim.com/uploads/how_...map/04R6GB.pdf

Cheers Lars
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Old 06-20-2006, 04:04 PM   #2
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Dangerous way for an owner to remap, and it's not as detailed as doing a PCIII I guess if you capture and can return to the originals it's not too bad..
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Old 06-20-2006, 04:29 PM   #3
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I'm skeptical, because I'm pretty sure those settings adjust Carbon Dioxide, not fuel mixture, as they do on the FJR1300...

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/co_adjustment.html

Actually, I guess you are adjusting the mixture, but if the results only change the CO2 output in slight amounts, I think it would have a subtle, not dramatic effect on performance.
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Old 06-20-2006, 04:45 PM   #4
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Yea I agree,It might not be worth burning valves on a good engine.
I'ii wait and get a power commander, or let someone else ginnypig this time
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Old 06-20-2006, 04:49 PM   #5
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Defintitly not a repacement for the PCIII.

Plus, I don't think the option is enabled on US models. Didn't I read that here?
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Old 06-20-2006, 05:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars
I just found this on R1 board, i cant get my arms down.
You can actually go into your display and ajust you fuel/air mixture. It's the same procedure as the R1 and the R6

Press both the reset and select while turning ignition on. Hold the bottens down for 8 seconds. WUPPA YOUR IN YOUR POWERCOMMANDER, sort of.
Cheers Lars
Lars,

Have you made any adjustments to the bike within these settings..curious what kind of improvements you've experienced.

thanks for the post

-medburd
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Old 06-20-2006, 06:23 PM   #7
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think it does not work becuase there is some sort of fiddling protection in the US model as Desmo mentioned.
Try these threads for more info:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51815
and
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50249
post #20
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Old 06-20-2006, 07:39 PM   #8
samotlietuvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars
I just found this on R1 board, i cant get my arms down.
You can actually go into your display and ajust you fuel/air mixture. It's the same procedure as the R1 and the R6

Press both the reset and select while turning ignition on. Hold the bottens down for 8 seconds. WUPPA YOUR IN YOUR POWERCOMMANDER, sort of.

Now you can with the two buttons change between two menus. DI that is the diagnostic and CO that is the fuel ratio.

Choose the CO and again hold both buttons down until a click is heard. Now C:01 is dispayed then again you can choose from C:01 till C:04 If you chose to see how C:01 is press both butons again mine was -05 in C:01 Press both again and your back where you can choose C:01 till C:04
As you se can below the C:02 is the fuel amount in the lower rews and i'll bet that's reasing why we have throttle snatch

BE WERY CAREFULL TO WRITE ALL DOWN
Mine Was
C:01 -5
C:02 20
C:03 20
C:04 4


Fuel injection Adjustment

Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:

Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed

Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed

Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening

Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal condition. It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.



Guidelines for setting

Code C1:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed:
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during races. Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.

Code C2:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting changes.

Code C3:
At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.

Code C4:
At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle. Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown. Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended. In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1 to 2% at a time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.



Here is a few links

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showt...0&pagenumber=1

http://www.cappojim.com/uploads/how_...map/04R6GB.pdf

Cheers Lars
Lars, hate to tell you this, but you are wrong... Read the entire post on the R1 board before you jump to conclusions . C1-C4 adjusts the fuel ratio by very small increments for the entire RPM range, C1- cyl #1, C2- cyl #2 ... You are refering to a Yamaha racing ECU that adjusts different RPM ranges, but neither I (06 R1), nor you (06 FZ1) have it...
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:05 PM   #9
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Lars can't answer. He's out looking for a new engine.
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lietuvis1
Lars, hate to tell you this, but you are wrong... Read the entire post on the R1 board before you jump to conclusions . C1-C4 adjusts the fuel ratio by very small increments for the entire RPM range, C1- cyl #1, C2- cyl #2 ... You are refering to a Yamaha racing ECU that adjusts different RPM ranges, but neither I (06 R1), nor you (06 FZ1) have it...
Talk about bursting someones bubble...
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quazz
Lars can't answer. He's out looking for a new engine.
Either that or he and James had a gig................ MASTER MASTER, Master of puppets is pulling your strings, stipping your mind...
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Old 06-21-2006, 06:33 AM   #12
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Adjusting each cylinder makes sense as many MFG's will jet the 2 inner cyl's on an inline 4 a tad richer to help with heat builup.
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lietuvis1
Lars, hate to tell you this, but you are wrong... Read the entire post on the R1 board before you jump to conclusions . C1-C4 adjusts the fuel ratio by very small increments for the entire RPM range, C1- cyl #1, C2- cyl #2 ... You are refering to a Yamaha racing ECU that adjusts different RPM ranges, but neither I (06 R1), nor you (06 FZ1) have it...
lietuvis1, you are correct. The CO mode is for adjusting the CO (CARBON MONOXIDE) percentage in each cylinder (C1, C2, C3, C4) NOT for adjusting the percentage of richness in each RPM band.
The CO percentage is a direct result of how rich the mixture is. There is more than enough adjustment built-in to change the % from 1% to 6% or more. These bikes come from the factory at roughly 1.5-2.0% CO to meet EPA standards here in the US. Set it too lean and you will burn valves. Set it too rich and you will foul plugs and load up the combustion chamber with carbon.

Read this thread if you want to know how setting the CO% affects the ON/OFF throttle problem: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/sho...613#post819613

Mick
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whooshka27
Adjusting each cylinder makes sense as many MFG's will jet the 2 inner cyl's on an inline 4 a tad richer to help with heat builup.
You would think that, but on the 01-05 FZ1, the inner two cylinders are set leaner, at least based on the factory needles and main jets (the idle mixture screws are set all over the place).
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:53 AM   #15
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So i found out alittle more today also some strange things.
1st. it's correct the C:01 C:02 C:03 C:04 is a CO ajustment for each cyl. and not what I found above.

It's just a simple CO ajustment like screws you had back then on the carburator s.

2nd. I was down at the dealer today and we checked 5 brand new FZ1 and fazer's. all of them was ajusted equal like mine.
C:01 (-5)
C:02 (20)
C:03 (20)
C:04 ( 2)
So why is the CO ajusted with such a spread?.
One thing could be that cyl. 1 and 4 is running cooler than 2 and 3.
It could also be that the 4 headers has different flow.
Emmision control could be another thing, and then they have just lowered cyl. 1 and 4 to get thru.

I made a CO test and even if tryed to raise all the 4 with high numbers the CO was normal "in idle" , thats becourse the oxgen sensor meassured to high CO and therefore turn the CO down itself. So I tryed to start up the bike when I was in the program so I could change up and down in numbers when it was running. When you do that the oxygen sensor is turned off and you can get the right CO FOR THE ENGINE. you can also clearly hear the engine change in sound when you ajusting each CO (Lean-Rich)
The oxygen sensor can only control the CO in idle/Low revs not when your driving and when you let it rip. The CO is working all the way up and not like the old Carbs where it only was in low revs
I have raised all 4 with 5. and the bike is running more smooth, I have tryed to raise all 4 as much as 40. I have also tryed to made all four equal ex. 10-10-10-10 but raising 5 each was the best result.
Even if you get a powercommander and an exhaust you need to go in an alter the CO settings remember it's the same as the old CO screw on caburators.
And yes the engine is running alot smoother and combined with ZERO slack in the throttle cable the on-off reaction is history. Hope you get the picture cause it's damn hard to explain the things in english compared to just say what I mean i Danish
Cheers Lars
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Old 06-21-2006, 02:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars
So i found out alittle more today also some strange things.
1st. it's correct the C:01 C:02 C:03 C:04 is a CO ajustment for each cyl. and not what I found above.

It's just a simple CO ajustment like screws you had back then on the carburator s.

2nd. I was down at the dealer today and we checked 5 brand new FZ1 and fazer's. all of them was ajusted equal like mine.
C:01 (-5)
C:02 (20)
C:03 (20)
C:04 ( 2)
So why is the CO ajusted with such a spread?.
One thing could be that cyl. 1 and 4 is running cooler than 2 and 3.
It could also be that the 4 headers has different flow.
Emmision control could be another thing, and then they have just lowered cyl. 1 and 4 to get thru.

I made a CO test and even if tryed to raise all the 4 with high numbers the CO was normal "in idle" , thats becourse the oxgen sensor meassured to high CO and therefore turn the CO down itself. So I tryed to start up the bike when I was in the program so I could change up and down in numbers when it was running. When you do that the oxygen sensor is turned off and you can get the right CO FOR THE ENGINE. you can also clearly hear the engine change in sound when you ajusting each CO (Lean-Rich)
The oxygen sensor can only control the CO in idle/Low revs not when your driving and when you let it rip. The CO is working all the way up and not like the old Carbs where it only was in low revs
I have raised all 4 with 5. and the bike is running more smooth, I have tryed to raise all 4 as much as 40. I have also tryed to made all four equal ex. 10-10-10-10 but raising 5 each was the best result.
Even if you get a powercommander and an exhaust you need to go in an alter the CO settings remember it's the same as the old CO screw on caburators.
And yes the engine is running alot smoother and combined with ZERO slack in the throttle cable the on-off reaction is history. Hope you get the picture cause it's damn hard to explain the things in english compared to just say what I mean i Danish
Cheers Lars
Lars, I played with CO mode on my R1 as well, the stock settings were all 3s across the board. I tried 10 across the board, and my R1 was not happy at high RPM's, but worked well at low RPM's. So I went to +2 across the board and that works the best for my motorcycle. You have to remember that our motorcycles come lean on the bottom and rich on the top from the factory. So adding too much positive adjustment to the CO will make you even richer on the top, which is not good, but at the same time it will help you on the bottom...
I would be very interested to know how Yamaha comes out with the different CO modes for each cylinder, like in your case. This sounds very similar to 01-05 FZ1s that had some weird factory mixture screw settings- ranging from .5 to 2.5 screws out... It looks to me that Yamaha does whatever it takes to pass emissions without spending too much time, even though that would mean engine running not smooth...
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Old 06-21-2006, 03:24 PM   #17
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I am pretty sure that the differrence in the 4 co% is that 3&4 normal is hotter than the two outer cyl. and therefore has to have a richer mixture. I have seen the same -5/20/20/2 numbers on 5 brandnew bikes today -FZ1-
But then again i saw also a new R6 wich had all 4 equal

I starting to belive that you can set the CO% as crazy as you want course the oxygen sensor has the last word to say when we talking about CO% in idle/Low revs area.
But when the revs start to rise the oxygen sensor has nothing to say and then the settings are starting to work.
You can for exampel take a brand new car/Bike were the CO% are nice below the allowed. Then run it on a dyno and then see crasy high CO% numbers
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:18 AM   #18
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My FZ1 was setting to -5/20/20/2 like lars... I'm now on -3/22/22/5 perfect for me

Quote:
Lars, I played with CO mode on my R1 as well, the stock settings were all 3s across the board. I tried 10 across the board, and my R1 was not happy at high RPM's, but worked well at low RPM's.
I do the same conclusion...
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:39 AM   #19
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This is how Full Spectrum Racing in Orlando tuned my R6. Smoothed it out, and almost 2HP. The said that PowerCommanders are crap, they hate tuning them. Whatever, saved my 275!
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:07 PM   #20
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Hey DaddyJon I wish you,d posted earlier and saved me some cash.
I,ve just fitted a pc111 and all I got for my money was extra power, torque and linear smoothness. Waste of money.
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