Dyno Results - MB Kit, Ported boots, BMC, Modified airbox

[ferguscawley]

Here ya go.

Bike is configured as follows :

Ivan's MB kit, BMC air filter, 3 degree advancer, modified airbox, ported inlet boots. G-Force slip-on can with stocker headers, retaining EXUP valve..

I am happy as a pig in sh1t

I knew the bike felt really good. Wasn't expecting those numbers. Dyno operator said is as good as an R1

Check out the fuel/air ratio. Beautiful line, staying constant almost all the way . This thing rocks !!!

[2005fz1]

WoW Looks good ....

Mike

[jeepcj258]

Those are good numbers. What type of dyno? I would be really happy with those numbers also.

[ferguscawley]

Originally Posted by jeepcj258

Those are good numbers. What type of dyno? I would be really happy with those numbers also.

Dynojet 250 dyno.

Note that the weather conditions were perfect - low humidity, reasonably low ambient and high atmospheric pressure. These factors undoubtedly helped the numbers, but it is just awesome to ride.

Recommended !

Ferg

[Yarddog]

Fergus,
thanks for the PM heads up on this, i couldn't be happier for you. those are very good results, of course, you know the naysayers won't be far behind.

the A/F in combination with the shape and timing of the power lines says that as i suspected this engine really likes 13.2/1, and due to the configuration and dirrection of the intake track you are unlikely to run leaner than that on the road too.

steve

[jloukes]

Fergus,
Have you been fiddling with your bike before dynoing it? Or did you just put it together following the instructions and let it be? I'm just wondering if there was extra effort besides the basic assembly like changing the mixture screws or shimming the needles.

Jason

[ferguscawley]

Originally Posted by jloukes

Fergus,
Have you been fiddling with your bike before dynoing it? Or did you just put it together following the instructions and let it be? I'm just wondering if there was extra effort besides the basic assembly like changing the mixture screws or shimming the needles.

Jason

Jason

No 'fiddling' of any kind. MB kit installed as per instructions (floats exactly at 14mm etc). Airbox was modified as per the instructions that come with the MB kit. I hand-ported the intake boots using a dremel and a small sanding roll as per the photos shown by MikeGTX on this site. I dynamically set the TPS using Ivan's method. Fitted a BMC air filter (cheaper over here than a K&N filter). Thats it. No shimming, Nitrous Oxide or turbos !

Sweet isn't it ??

[jloukes]

I'm just wondering because I have a similar setup with an Akra pipe, advancer and K&N the only differences. I am hoping to dyno it this summer, I hope my fuel and torque curves are as smooth as yours.

Good job!

edit: missed the advancer in my speed read.

[fz1pone]

jesus h! those lines are so freakin smooth right from the bottom.

[Falcon 269]

I've got mine in exactly the same state of tune now and my butt dyno tells me the same as Fergus' charts above.

I ran with Ivan's slip-on kit for 3 years before installing the MB kit and doing the intake side modifications. After test riding the new set up, I found it hard to believe that the difference wasn't just down to my imagination. You know, I wanted it to feel good, so it did? However, these numbers confirm to me that this is the best bang for the buck jetting solution for the Fazer 1000.

No phaffing around with velocity stacks and pods, no dips in the bottom end from trading the EXUP valve for a full system ... just solid drive from idle to the redline and a gain of around 16 - 18bhp peak over a stock FZ1 motor. Oh, and look at the peak torque ... about 8 ftlbs more than a typical stocker and delivered about 750rpm lower in the rev band.



Mike

[aussie]

Great numbers and air/fuel graph Fergus! You must be over the moon.

Do you guys think that the same could be achieved without the 3 Deg advancer, or is this an integral part of the whole set up? I may try the same set up but would rather not "phaff" around with the timing advancer if I can help it.

[ferguscawley]

Aussie

Yes - I am delighted with the results. To be honest, I don't think that the advancer is doing much here. Ivan's tests with advancers show no gains in the midrange and above with advancers. From what I have read here, it can help a little from idle to 3000 rpm.

I reckon that setting the TPS using Ivan's dynamic method negates the need for an advancer at low revs. The reason my bike has one is that it came fitted when I bought it used.

Hope this helps

Ferg

[aussie]

Originally Posted by ferguscawley

Aussie

Yes - I am delighted with the results. To be honest, I don't think that the advancer is doing much here. Ivan's tests with advancers show no gains in the midrange and above with advancers.

True, but then Ivans tests also show no gains with the MB kit over the SO kit if you only have the slip on fitted, which kind of goes against your graphs.

Maybe ( I suspect that this is the case) that boot mod has a fair bit to do with it or maybe Ivan didn't test the MB kit with the different filter and airbox mod at the time he did his testing?

Not trying to start anything here guys, just trying to work through the whys and hows.

[Falcon 269]

Hi Aussie,

Ivan developed the MB kit specifically for a full system exhaust, so he probably never even tried it with the stock headers at the time.

He revisited a lot of options a few months back while working on his pod kit. It was at this time that he came up with the intake boot mods which gave a healthy 5bhp gain on their own. His testing at this stage was still on his bike with the full Muzzy exhaust, IIRC.

Later on, he was asked by a few of us to test the intake mods (airbox and intake boots) on a motor fitted with the stock headers. He did this fairly recently using another member's bike for that work and found that, with the MB kit fitted as well, the results were really rather good

I haven't tried mine without the ignition advancer but I suspect it might lose a little at the bottom end. I say this based on my experience of gaining a bit of sharpness when I first fitted the advancer to mine when it was still running the slip-on kit.

Fitting the timing advancer is an easy 10 minute job - no 'phaff' at all.



Mike

[aussie]

Originally Posted by mikegtx2002

Fitting the timing advancer is an easy 10 minute job - no 'phaff' at all.



Mike

Try ordering 3 deg advancer in Australia and you will know what phaff is! I realise the instal is nothing major but if I were going to go ahead with htis it would mean two seperate orders coming out of the states. A real costly exercise and a PITA!!

Actually I just wanted to use your word "phaff" Mike.

[Falcon 269]

Good word, ain't it?

Point taken about ordering from the USA. Have you considered getting the Dremel out and modifying your OE advancer? There was a thread running here recently, with pictures and dimensions, if you're feeling adventurous.

Personally, I'd not worry about it until you've done the rest of the mods first. Consider it as maybe a little icing on the cake



Mike

[aussie]

Originally Posted by mikegtx2002

Good word, ain't it?

Point taken about ordering from the USA. Have you considered getting the Dremel out and modifying your OE advancer? There was a thread running here recently, with pictures and dimensions, if you're feeling adventurous.

Personally, I'd not worry about it until you've done the rest of the mods first. Consider it as maybe a little icing on the cake



Mike

I think that I will just go without the advancer. I only just purchased a dremmel last week so I have't actually mastered it enough to start cutting holes in my OEM advancer yet.

Might have to look at the other mods seriously though!

Fergus, I just noticed on your dyno run, 28% humidity. I can loan you some more if you like, I am getting between 80-95% this time of the year and it is shitting me off!

Crutch rot here I come!

[ferguscawley]

Originally Posted by aussie

Fergus, I just noticed on your dyno run, 28% humidity. I can loan you some more if you like, I am getting between 80-95% this time of the year and it is shitting me off!

Crutch rot here I come!

LOL

No thanks Aussie. You can keep that humidity all for yourself lad !

The weather is beautiful here at the moment. Nice and cool (14 C) crisp and dry - ideal conditions for an Ivanised engine

However, normal service will be resumed tomorrow (wet, wet, wet and windy), so I am making the most of the bike while the sun is shining.

As Mike says, the advancer is probably the icing on the cake. Go with the jet kit, filter and airbox/boot mods first. You won't regret it.

P.S. Take your time with the dremel on the intake boots. Set the speed nice and slow and keep the dremel moving when removing the excess rubber. Its worth getting this right. Keep checking with your finger that the boot is nice and smooth.

Ferg

[fz1pone]

Originally Posted by aussie

Do you guys think that the same could be achieved without the 3 Deg advancer, or is this an integral part of the whole set up? I may try the same set up but would rather not "phaff" around with the timing advancer if I can help it.

my set up isn't really the same thing, (i've got a full hindle, mb kit and k&n) but i found that when i put the advancer in there it affected much more than 3k and below. i've attached my chart (pre-advancer) below and you can see why i'm so impressed with fergus' (ahem) bottom end. however i suspect that now, with the advancer, my chart might look more similar to fergus'. it made a tremendous difference in smoothing out the delivery all the way up to around 6k.

but you kids are running stock headers, right? there may not be as much to gain with an advancer in that case.

[Yarddog]

pone,
i think that the hindle is responsible for the look of your pre-advancer chart, and you may find that if you get a new one that it looks very similar with the exception that the "sags " MIGHT not be as deep.

Fergus, Mike and others with the stock system may even actually be getting more from the advancer, but i think the boot mod is responsible for more of the results than the advancer.

Fergus's chart shows better than average overall fueling but, if you get his chart on screen and take a look at it closely it shows some areas that could be improved.

look at the very start of the chart , where the A/F starts to stabilize from the initial WOT peg. if you put your cursor right at the place the A/F is at 13/1 then mouse scroll up the chart to the torque curve you'll see that the line is rising pretty good. but you'll also see a dogleg not far up the chart, where the power line takes a slightly shallower angle, and it is realitive to the A/F crossing above 13.5 at the same place.

if you look at the whole chart you can watch this happen several times and remedy each time the A/F goes back more nearly to 13.5 or below. after about 7500rpm this moves to needing to watch the HP line, but it's still happening.

at the very topend for 1000 or more rpm the A/F is about 14/1 and the HP line is wavering, this waver usually depicts leaness and can be supported by the next move of the A/F going back to 13.5/1 and the line smoothing right back out.

Fergus's bike is no doubt an absolute hoot to ride as is, but if he can tweek it to get and maintain the A/F so that the "highs" in the line stay under 13.5/1 it might be even better.

IHMO,
steve