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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 2 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 09-05-2016, 08:03 PM   #1
2RRMC
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Gen2 rear shock

Has anyone tried to swap a 2015 R1 shock onto a gen2 FZ1? the reservoir sits lower and I was wondering if it would clear the rec/reg or if it is even the right length. Thanks
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:03 AM   #2
Satan666
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R1 Shock Differences

Thought sure I had answered this question in another post but could not find it in a search.

The 2015-2016 R1 shock is not a direct fit in the GEN II FZ1. First, the upper eye spacers must be machined to reduce the overall width 2mm to fit into the frame.

At that point, the shock will bolt in and can be adjusted for ride height.

The bad news is that the reservoir interferes with the voltage regulator which must be relocated. The tray must be cut to allow clearance. I am currently in the process of determining the extent of the mod and waiting for a spare tray so I can come up with a kit for install.

Be aware that the spring on the 2015 shock is in-between the rates for the '04-'06 and '07-'08 R1 shocks making it optimal for riders under 175# wet. I have not yet found many replacement spring options for the 2015+ shock if you are not in that weight range. Earlier springs may fit but will lack ramp adjustment as they are somewhat shorter.

Also be aware that the 2015+ R1 shocks are significantly cheaper in manufacture than the earlier models. That does not say they will not be as effective, but it is worth noting.

Finally, the going price for the later shocks is significantly more. Granted, mileage difference plays a role, but the earlier rear shocks I have found are far from the rebuild requirement.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:27 PM   #3
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Satan, great information.

2RRMC, go with Satans adapter and use an earlier model shock. You'll save some cash and have a shock worth rebuilding or springing for your weight. If your interested, I have the shock, Satans adapter and forks with brakes from a 2008 R1.
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:50 AM   #4
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Satan,

The reservoir on the 2015 looks like it sits a bit lower relative to the eye than on the 09-14 (based on internet photos). You might not have to cut the tray but you will still probably have to flip the rectifier. FWIW, mine's been flipped for 3.5 years without issue in S. FL heat.

Also, the preload adjustment went back to lock rings.
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:31 PM   #5
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Only If . . .

Spent some time today with the FZ1 and the 2015 R1 Shock. XJtoFZ is correct in his statements. However, there is more to the story.

I machined the upper eye bushings cutting the outer face by about 1.5mm. When reinstalled in the shock, this brought the eye/ear fitting width to just under 30mm. After removing the '08 R1 shock and adapter I tried fitting the 2015. The Voltage Regulator blocked the shock's reservoir and it would not fit into the frame eye.

With the voltage regulator removed, the 2015 shock fit with just enough swing to operate within the bounds of the linkage without striking the tray.
On to the not so good news.

Moving the Voltage Regulator to the top side of the tray is not minor surgery. Whatever method is taken, the EXUP motor has to go. For many this has already occurred; however, this mod has expenses and complications of its own. I suggest a bit of research before you cut and paste. For me, it's on the list, but nowhere near the top.

With the EXUP removed, the V-R will fit above the tray but, it must be biased to the right side of the bike to allow room for the connectors. Unfortunately, the tray also acts as a mount point for the rear brake master cylinder reservoir. the tray is formed with an upwards appendage for the tab mounting surface and screw. Also, the master cylinder cap is about 1 7/8" in diameter so that restricts placement of the V-R for connector clearance.

A small metal bracket/weldment could provide a mount for the V-R and give clearance; however, I ran out of sunshine for that fitting. In conclusion, I did not find a no-mod solution for install given the EXUP issue. There is also the problem with the residual heat; however I will take the word of FJtoFZ that even in smokin' FL the regulator can survive.

The following photos show the difference in reservoir placement between the '04-'08, the '09-'14 and '15-'16 R1 shocks. While the 2015 is slightly lower than the '08 it does extend a significant amount to the rear. This is a major problem with the V-R. I'll discuss another alternative in the next post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Shock Compare.jpg (123.5 KB, 229 views)
File Type: jpg Shock Compare 2.jpg (108.7 KB, 230 views)
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:35 PM   #6
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this has been done and documented on the other forum, some modification to the under tray is required.

here's the link

http://www.998cc.org/forum/suspensio...=2015+r1+shock
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Old 11-27-2016, 06:03 PM   #7
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If only . . .

The placement of the '15-'16 reservoir relative to the '04-'08 got me thinking: "what if I used the adapter?" The shock would clear the V-R and there is enough threads on the lower rod to trim 7-8mm. This would be the best of all worlds! No mods and adjustable for ride height!

When I tried to insert the modded upper eye into the adapter I noticed a problem. The inner cut out in the adapter was not wide enough to accept the diameter of the bushings. I had a similar problem with the '09-'14 shock which was remedied by some additional milling.

However, I inserted the shock into the adapter without the bushing inserts and observed that it was tight against the upper cavity and barely aligned with the cross bolt holes. The upper portion of the shock casting was higher than the earlier models.

This presents a conundrum as the adapter is optimal for the add-on distance between the frame eye and the shock and there is only 2mm or so of clearance between the eye cutout and the thru-hole for the frame mounting bolt. So, the adapter could not be further cut for clearance. The only cure would be to lower the shock casting by milling or grinding.

So, in conclusion, the 2015-2016 R1 shock could be a no-mod replacement with the V4 adapter if the shock itself underwent surgery. First the upper eye bushing turn-down would require a profile to fit into the adapter. Not a problem as each requires lathe time anyway.

The second shock 'adjustment' would be the reduction in the upper eye casting. Have not yet decided on that process considering the rubber insert currently in the shock. Too much heat would be problematic.

Third, the lower shock clevis requires removal and trimming. Of all 3 mods, this is the easiest.

Given the requirement of the adapter as well as the shock surgery, this mod will definitely cost more than the '04-'08 with the adapter. In addition, the stock '15-'16 spring is heavier than the '07-'08 so it may not be suitable for riders <190 or so. On the positive side it is competitive with the '04-'08 if you have to purchase a link to raise or lower the rear end.

The following photos show the upper eye profile difference and the obnoxious V-R into the tray placement.

For those of you that have canned your EXUP, you will only need modded upper bushings. The mod to relocate the V-R is somewhat onerous but if I have enough time left before snowfall, I'll look into fabbing an adapter bracket.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Upper Eye Compare.jpg (106.9 KB, 229 views)
File Type: jpg V-R Mount Top.jpg (111.5 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg V-R Standard.jpg (120.8 KB, 226 views)
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Old 11-27-2016, 06:21 PM   #8
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Snip, Snip and a 'bit' of welding . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko View Post
this has been done and documented on the other forum, some modification to the under tray is required.
I afraid that 'some modification' is a bit understated. The tray acts as a floating brace in the subframe for the battery and, what happened to that pesky mount for the brake reservoir? Does the author still have an EXUP?

I considered the approach and purchased a new tray for just under $30. In looking at how the V-R needs clearance for the connectors, the structural integrity of the tray will need additional bracing if the regulator is displaced by essentially cutting the bottom out. A better approach might be to cut the tray and weld in a formed insert.

That being considered, the cost of a modded tray (finished and painted) will likely exceed that of an adapter. The shock bushings still require turning.

I wish it were so easy!

Although, there is always duct tape and ty-wraps . . .
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Old 11-27-2016, 07:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satan666 View Post
I afraid that 'some modification' is a bit understated. The tray acts as a floating brace in the subframe for the battery and, what happened to that pesky mount for the brake reservoir? Does the author still have an EXUP?

I considered the approach and purchased a new tray for just under $30. In looking at how the V-R needs clearance for the connectors, the structural integrity of the tray will need additional bracing if the regulator is displaced by essentially cutting the bottom out. A better approach might be to cut the tray and weld in a formed insert.

That being considered, the cost of a modded tray (finished and painted) will likely exceed that of an adapter. The shock bushings still require turning.

I wish it were so easy!

Although, there is always duct tape and ty-wraps . . .
He has not posted much (only 4 posts) over there, so I have no idea how his mod is holding up. I'm not sure which part of Australia he is from either.
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:37 PM   #10
serialthriller
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This mod isnt that hard if you have already removed exup motor.
A bit of accurate measuring.took me about 2 hours of work and 3 hours of thought.
rear brake reservoir needs a straight link bracket linking it back to the original point.
shock get warm but not hot.

Last edited by serialthriller; 04-17-2019 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 03:30 PM   #11
Giarc Leumas
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I just did this a couple days ago, drilled the pinch welds for the small triangle piece on the back of the plate and on the mount for the rear brake reservoir. Rectifier moved to top of the plate in stock bolt holes with a bit of sticky tape on either side and riveted the reservoir to the bottom of the place in the same place. Exup motor still in its OEM location however cables are removed. Everything clears just fine.
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