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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 09-12-2013, 07:37 AM   #1
BikeGuyOne
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Fork Seal Replacement

I am replacing the fork seals on my 2002 FZ1 and don’t understand the procedure for installing the fork caps.

A search on this board suggests that I should set the fork cap damper screw at the middle of its adjustment range, screw the cap all the way down onto the damper rod, and tighten the lock nut against the cap.

My confusion comes from searching other sites (Non- FZ1, but conventional forks) that have you turn the damper screw all the way in before installing the fork cap.

I may be a little OCD on this but any advice (on the proper procedure) is truly appreciated.

Andy
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:26 AM   #2
Bruce in Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeGuyOne View Post
I am replacing the fork seals on my 2002 FZ1 and don’t understand the procedure for installing the fork caps.

A search on this board suggests that I should set the fork cap damper screw at the middle of its adjustment range, screw the cap all the way down onto the damper rod, and tighten the lock nut against the cap.

My confusion comes from searching other sites (Non- FZ1, but conventional forks) that have you turn the damper screw all the way in before installing the fork cap.

I may be a little OCD on this but any advice (on the proper procedure) is truly appreciated.

Andy
Glenn (Ravenrider) recommends turning the rebound adjusters all the way in, then back them out 20 clicks. With them 20 clicks out from full hard screw them onto the damper rod until they stop (don't forget to put the adjuster rod in!) and run the lock nut up to the cap and tighten.
This does put you in the approx. middle of the adjustment range. I personally like 15 clicks out better in that the rebound adjuster isn't sticking out above the cap but 15-22 or so should be fine.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:34 AM   #3
jlfx car audio
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Fixing to pull my front forks down also to inspect and replace seals and what not . is there any threads that have pictures of the parts inside the forks.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:44 AM   #4
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RavenRider's fork upgrade thread:
http://yamahafz1oa.com/ravenriderssu...nupgrade.shtml

Arkie6's fork rebuild thread:
http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67950

Those pretty much cover it.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeGuyOne View Post
I am replacing the fork seals on my 2002 FZ1 and don’t understand the procedure for installing the fork caps.

A search on this board suggests that I should set the fork cap damper screw at the middle of its adjustment range, screw the cap all the way down onto the damper rod, and tighten the lock nut against the cap.

My confusion comes from searching other sites (Non- FZ1, but conventional forks) that have you turn the damper screw all the way in before installing the fork cap.

I may be a little OCD on this but any advice (on the proper procedure) is truly appreciated.

Andy
Different types of forks. On the Gen 1 FZ1, just back the rebound damper adjustment screw all the way out. It doesn't really matter where it is positioned as long as it is not turned in too far. Then install and bottom the fork cap on the cartridge rod and tighten the locknut. Don't forget to install the internal rebound damper rod before installing the cap. After the fork is reassembled, then turn in the rebound adjustment screw until it lightly bottoms out and then turn it back out the desired number of turns/clicks.

See mine and and in particular Sportryder's comments in this thread for more info:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81906
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:15 PM   #6
Bruce in Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
Different types of forks. On the Gen 1 FZ1, just back the rebound damper adjustment screw all the way out. It doesn't really matter where it is positioned as long as it is not turned in too far. Then install and bottom the fork cap on the cartridge rod and tighten the locknut. Don't forget to install the internal rebound damper rod before installing the cap. After the fork is reassembled, then turn in the rebound adjustment screw until it lightly bottoms out and then turn it back out the desired number of turns/clicks.

See mine and and in particular Sportryder's comments in this thread for more info:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81906
Now I'm confused and you're confusing the guy doing the Fork Oil change on the Gen 1. On the link you provided you stated on 5/28/2008 that you set the rebound screw on the cap before it's screwed on the damper rod to 1/2 way between full in and full out (which IIRC is about 30ish clicks). Then today you said just back the rebound screw all the way out before you install the cap on the damper. This will limit the range of rebound adjustment on the soft end of the scale. I think your comment from 5/28/2008 is the correct way to do it; not turning the screw all the way out. No?
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:30 PM   #7
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On normal forks or USD forks most have a set for the rebound.

Not so with the Gen I FZ1.

On Gen I, the rebound is backed all the way out.
The CAP is tightened down onto the rod and has a set point in the cap. The adjuster has more than enough adjustment to make full contact with the adjuster pin in The valve.
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:44 PM   #8
Bruce in Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
On normal forks or USD forks most have a set for the rebound.

Not so with the Gen I FZ1.

On Gen I, the rebound is backed all the way out.
The CAP is tightened down onto the rod and has a set point in the cap. The adjuster has more than enough adjustment to make full contact with the adjuster pin in The valve.
I stand corrected, thanks Glenn. First mistake this year..... (ducking & running) :-)
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:05 AM   #9
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So the answer is it’s not critical on the Gen 1 FZ1 so long as the damper screws on both caps are set to the same position before installing the caps.

All the way out = OK
Mid range = OK

Setting the damper screw all the way out sounds a little strange because it would seem to limit the damper adjustment range (recommended damper setting of 7 clicks out from full in) once the forks were fully assembled.

Anyway, I sure it will become evident once I disassemble the forks and get a good look at the innards. The parts are ordered and I should find some time in the next week or two to tackle the job.

Thanks to all for your help!

Andy
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:12 AM   #10
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The fork caps are not "pre-set" like other NON-SOQI brand forks. Most important thing to remember is SOQI designed the cap with the intent to thread the fork cap onto the cartridge rod until the cartridge rod bottoms out inside the fork cap. When that happens, the jam nut is then brought up to the cap/preload adjuster body and tightened. There are reasons for that. Follow along with me and I will explain. The Gen1 FZ1 rebound adjuster screw at the top of the fork cap has a thread pitch of .5 mm to 1. That means one full turn of the screw moves the adjuster rod up or down 1/2 of a mm. This is why there are 5-5.5 full turns of the adjuster screw as its complete range of movement. 8 clicks per revolution for the screw x 5 turns = 40 clicks of adjustment range. That means the adjuster rod and hence the needle would have a change in height of 2 to 2.5 mm depending on the total number of turns each cap adjuster screw has. I have never seen one with 6 full turns.

Almost all non-SOQI brand forks which have rebound or compression damping screws at their fork caps have 1.0 mm to 1 thread pitch. 3 full turns of the adjuster screw moves the adjuster rod or needle 3 mm. With these non-SOQI types of forks, the fork cap must always be "pre-set" and the cartridge rod never bottoms out inside the fork cap. You cannot make it bottom out inside the cap. Pre-setting those caps is as simple as turning the screw counter-clockwise until it stops, then turn it in 3 full turns. Install the cap with the adjuster rod in place until the adjuster rod bottoms the needle out inside the rebound valve assembly holder at the other end of the cartridge rod. Then bring the jam nut up to the fork cap and snug it up. Doing so will provide you with 3 full turns of adjustment range for it. It isn't an exacting science for total number of clicks or adjustment range. Somewhere close is fine. I say that only because it does not matter the total number of clicks or turns. What does matter is how far the needle is raised off the single oil flow orifice it sits over and seals off.

The Gen1 FZ1 and all FJR fork caps are SOQI parts and the fork cap installation procedure is as follows: turn the fork cap adjuster screw out until it stops and do not force it. Be gentle. Thread on to cartridge rod until you are sure the cartridge rod has bottomed out inside the fork cap. Be careful on this because if there are burrs on the threads of the rod, they may make you think the rod has bottomed inside the cap. Check your work. Accuracy is important for this small portion especially since the thread pitch of the adjuster screw is so fine. Bring the jam nut up and tighten it. Do not forget to install the adjuster rod inside the cartridge rod. LOL

I know this is a lot of information. Hopefully it was helpful if you weren't put to sleep by the sheer quantity of words to read.
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Last edited by sportryder; 09-13-2013 at 06:31 AM. Reason: correction and addition
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportryder View Post
The fork caps are not "pre-set" like other NON-SOQI brand forks. Most important thing to remember is SOQI designed the cap with the intent to thread the fork cap onto the cartridge rod until the cartridge rod bottoms out inside the fork cap. When that happens, the jam nut is then brought up to the cap/preload adjuster body and tightened. There are reasons for that. Follow along with me and I will explain. The Gen1 FZ1 rebound adjuster screw at the top of the fork cap has a thread pitch of .5 mm to 1. That means one full turn of the screw moves the adjuster rod up or down 1/2 of a mm. This is why there are 5-5.5 full turns of the adjuster screw as its complete range of movement. 8 clicks per revolution for the screw x 5 turns = 40 clicks of adjustment range. That means the adjuster rod and hence the needle would have a change in height of 2 to 2.5 mm depending on the total number of turns each cap adjuster screw has. I have never seen one with 6 full turns.

Almost all non-SOQI brand forks which have rebound or compression damping screws at their fork caps have 1.0 mm to 1 thread pitch. 3 full turns of the adjuster screw moves the adjuster rod or needle 3 mm. With these non-SOQI types of forks, the fork cap must always be "pre-set" and the cartridge rod never bottoms out inside the fork cap. You cannot make it bottom out inside the cap. Pre-setting those caps is as simple as turning the screw counter-clockwise until it stops, then turn it in 3 full turns. Install the cap with the adjuster rod in place until the adjuster rod bottoms the needle out inside the rebound valve assembly holder at the other end of the cartridge rod. Then bring the jam nut up to the fork cap and snug it up. Doing so will provide you with 3 full turns of adjustment range for it. It isn't an exacting science for total number of clicks or adjustment range. Somewhere close is fine. I say that only because it does not matter the total number of clicks or turns. What does matter is how far the needle is raised off the single oil flow orifice it sits over and seals off.

The Gen1 FZ1 and all FJR fork caps are SOQI parts and the fork cap installation procedure is as follows: turn the fork cap adjuster screw out until it stops and do not force it. Be gentle. Thread on to cartridge rod until you are sure the cartridge rod has bottomed out inside the fork cap. Be careful on this because if there are burrs on the threads of the rod, they may make you think the rod has bottomed inside the cap. Check your work. Accuracy is important for this small portion especially since the thread pitch of the adjuster screw is so fine. Bring the jam nut up and tighten it. Do not forget to install the adjuster rod inside the cartridge rod. LOL

I know this is a lot of information. Hopefully it was helpful if you weren't put to sleep by the sheer quantity of words to read.
You are so good with words. Word Smith. LOL.

You explained it well. Now when he tries to assemble them and doesn't put the bottom oil flow stopper in the steel tube "UPSIDE DOWN" and then slide the aluminum tube over that assembly, we'll try to explain that one.

Maybe we'll be surprised.
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:52 PM   #12
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we've done it a couple of times right? LOL do something enough times and you try to figure out the easiest way to get it done. human nature.

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Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
You are so good with words. Word Smith. LOL.

You explained it well. Now when he tries to assemble them and doesn't put the bottom oil flow stopper in the steel tube "UPSIDE DOWN" and then slide the aluminum tube over that assembly, we'll try to explain that one.

Maybe we'll be surprised.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:46 PM   #13
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Listen to Lee and Glenn, they ARE the GURUs
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #14
BikeGuyOne
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So I finally got around to replacing the fork seals today and it turned out to be a fairly easy job. I backed the damper screw all the way out and then installed the cap. Many thanks to sportryder and RavenRider for your expert and detailed instructions.
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