Charging system/RR/white connector fix

[xtremewlr]

Not sure where this post should go as it's a modification but it also fixes some issues with the stock charging system. So I'm putting it here but mods can move it as needed.

I want to point out that this is not a difficult mod to do by any means but it is not plug and play. So if you aren't comfortable digging into the electrical system on your bike, don't try doing this mod alone.

This is a mod that I have done before on a 2001 SV650 and it can be applied to pretty much any bike out there. You can view the thread I made on converting that bike here - http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111850

I can't take credit for the idea or design except for doing it on my FZ1. The real credit goes to DEcosse, who isn't a forum member here but is on several other bike related sites and has done this mod to all his bikes of varying makes and models. You can read more about it and some of the theory behind it here - http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0

The main known electrical issue with Gen I FZ1s is the white connector under the gas tank. It has a tendency to melt some of the connections and can leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. The current fix is to replace the connector with several heavy duty connectors, one for each individual wire. You can find this method here - http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsde...lacement.shtml I personally don't like this method as it is more of a band-aid to the problem in my opinion. You also end up with a much larger bundle under the tank in place of the factory connector.

The stock Gen I FZ1 charging system works fine, just. It's sufficient for every day riding and one or 2 accessories before the system starts getting overloaded. This can lead to a quicker breakdown of the charging system and lead to issues that could potentially leave you stranded a long way from home.

This mod completely eliminates the white connector and related wiring and replaces the stock regulator/rectifier with a much better MOSFET unit. All new weather tight connectors are being used too. In my particular case, I am also relocating the RR to the empty area where the stock air box was since I have pod filters. This will also shorten and compact the RR part of the charging system, causing even less resistance and points of possible failure.

Here is the basic wiring diagram of what I am doing. Again, credit goes to DEcosse, the author of the thread I linked above from eviltwinsbk forums. While the diagram shows the black and red wires coming out the the stock RR separately, on the FZ they come out all together and go to the white connector, separating later in the wiring harness. The FZ still has the intermediate harness that is to be eliminated.



Answers to a couple questions that I know will come up regarding the new wiring.

1. What's the point of running new wires from the battery?

Direct wiring to the battery from the RR output gives more consistent charging of the battery since there are less points of failure (multiple factory connections in the stock harness) and the wires being used for this are larger 12ga wires. The stock wiring from the RR connector is small gauge and also is not ideally routed/coupled - it actually splices into the wire harness with a crimp coupler that has been known to oxidize & fail. Many are under misapprehension that the R/R ONLY carries the current required to keep the battery charged - it actually carries ALL the current that the bike consumes PLUS the charging current for the battery.
So a 12ga wire directly coupled to the battery ensures there is minimal voltage drop across that larger grade wire than OEM wiring. Performance is thus improved in power delivery to the bike's system as well as the charging voltage applied to the battery.

2. Why the additional fuse? Why not wire it into the existing fuse box?

It provides a measure of safety if there is a short in the system. Running the wires into the factory fuse box would actually be more work in my opinion and not be as simple because of trying to install the wiring into the fuse box. The external fuse holder is easy to install and keeps the charging system wiring separate for ease of troubleshooting if there are issues later.

On to the parts I am using!

The replacement RR I am using is a FH012AA. This is commonly found on 07+ R1s, some VStar bikes and newer FJRs. It's rated at 50A where the stock SH650C-11 RR is only rated at 18A. The Yamaha part # for the FH012AA RR is 1D7-81960-00-00 and it runs for about $131 new according to ronayers.com. I picked mine up on ebay for $90 shipped.

The new connectors that I am using are all sourced from easternbeaver.com. These are "build yourself" connectors, meaning that you need to install the wires into them but they are otherwise ready to go. The RR connectors are identical to the OEM ones and are far superior to anything else on the bike.



An inline 30A fuse is also being added to the system as an additional safety precaution and is also sourced from easternbeaver.com and is weather tight too.



Other items needed are 12ga wire in black and red, 30A ATM fuses (the small ones like the other fuses in the bike), ring connectors for 12ga wire to attach to the battery and shrink tube.





I started working on this project earlier this evening and found out I was out of electrical tape and it was getting late so I couldn't continue. I'll get it all finished up tomorrow after a run to Home Depot for more tape and some aluminum plate to make a mount for the new RR and a battery hold down (zip ties in the now...) and will post further pics. I've gotten the stock RR removed so far, along with the intermediate wiring harness. I had no burned connectors and my charging system is working well so this is a preventative mod for me, not a fix.

When I was removing the intermediate harness (pics of this tomorrow) I found the ground and charging wires were spliced into other wires in the harness with crimp connectors as indicated above. They are also thin, 14ga wires. This is all factory wiring, not modified, until now at least. I cut the ground and charging wires out of the crimp connection and then soldered the crimps to make sure there was a good connection remaining. Taped them up good with electrical tape and then they go back into the harness.

Hope this piques some interest for you guys. It takes some work but isn't too bad and is totally worth the effort. It's a proven and effective mod to improve the charging and electrical system.

To be continued....

[xtremewlr]

All done with the install. Took a little longer trying to figure out how to mount the new RR and make brackets for it. Took lots of pictures and will post those and the remainder of the write up later tonight. Bike runs great and the charging system is very sound now.

[eflyguy]

I think I like the idea of relocating the rectifier as well. It's a PIA where it's located. On the Gen II, it's under the seat, near the shock..
..a

[xtremewlr]

Originally Posted by eflyguy

I think I like the idea of relocating the rectifier as well. It's a PIA where it's located. On the Gen II, it's under the seat, near the shock..
..a

That's where mine is now.

Uploading pictures now and will post the rest of the write up in a little while as I just got back from a short ride. No problems but then I didn't expect to have any. The nice thing is, I can put my bare hand onto the RR as soon as I get off the bike and it's cool to the touch. Never tried that with the stock one but I wouldn't be surprised if it was warm or hot to the touch after a ride. The 2001 SV650 was hot to the touch after a ride, enough to burn yourself before doing the RR swap.

[Falcon 269]

Good stuff, keep it coming and thanks.

Mike

[xtremewlr]

Picking up from where I left off last night.

I didn't get any pictures of the factory crimp connections, sorry. If you do the mod, you will see exactly what I am talking about. I did, however, take plenty of pictures today and I think I have everything covered. This will cover the actual install as applied to my bike. Yours will likely be different but the basic wiring is the same.

This is what the new RR looks like. As I said, this is an FH012AA from a 2007 VStar XVS1300 but the 07+ R1 and I think 06+ FJR use the same one.





It's a little larger physically than the stock FZ RR but the bolt holes are in the same spot so it should bolt up to the stock location if you are reusing it. Not sure about the plugs tho, they might interfere with mounting the new RR.





Next is the intermediate harness that is being eliminated. This has the dreaded white connector (end with the red and black wires coming out of it) that has a tendency to burn up when the battery starts having any kind of issues. The other white connector is the plug half of the stator connection. You can see that the red and black wires (red actually charges the battery) are small, 14ga wires and just barely adequate for the job. especially when they are running into factory crimp connections.



Wiring under the tank looks much better without that crappy white connector there!



And with the stock RR being removed and the new one relocated, I have room in the original location for whatever I want now.



This is where I put the new RR. This is prior to making the new bracket for it and the battery retaining plate. You can see the zip-ties that were in use from the previous owner when the pod filters were installed. The wiring harness in the foreground was in the process of being put back together after I removed the intermediate harness.



One note when unwrapping the factory harness. When you get to the T-clamps that are taped into the harness and holding it to the frame, there are little nubs on the frame that the T-clamps snap onto. Just use a small screw driver to pop the clip and the T-clamp will slide off. Nice little touch instead of the hole in the frame that never wants to release the clips!



Once the intermediate harness is removed and you have taped the factory harness back together (hopefully neatly so that it looks mostly stock again!), you can then start on re-wiring the charging system. Being totally separate from the rest of the electrical system makes it much easier to work on and troubleshoot if you later have issues.

First is replacing the factory plug on the wires coming from the stator. Here is the factory plug.



This is the new Fukuwara plug that replaces the factory one. Make sure you use the GREY plug on the stator end. This plugs into the GREY plug on the RR. You can get these plugs here - http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...onnectors.html



Make sure you cut the stator wires off right at the old plug you you keep as much wire length as possible. Install the individual crimp connectors, remembering to put the weather tight plugs on the wires first. I also soldered the crimp connections after crimping to make sure they don't ever come loose.





And the completed plug, ready to plug into the RR. The order of the wires from the stator do not matter.



Before going further, I had to figure out how to mount the new RR in the new location and make the battery retaining plate so I could get rid of the zip ties. Didn't take pictures of this but you will see the end results further down.

Next is running the new wires to charge the battery. These are run directly to the battery and attach with ring connectors. The positive wire first runs through a 30A fuse for an added safety measure. I used the same steps for this as the stator wires when assembling the plugs. The difference on the output wires to the battery is it DOES matter which side the red and black go. See the pic below for the proper locations.



Again, I soldered the crimp connections to make them solid. Here is the finished plug.



With the new RR mounted and ready to go, I plugged the connectors in so I could finish the charging half of the system.



The red wire runs up to a weather tight fuse holder using a 30A ATM fuse.



And this is the location I chose for the fuse holder. Drilled a hole through the plastic under tray and used a rivet to hold it in place.



On the battery side, the special ring connectors are used. These have shrink tube with glue in them so that when you heat them up and they shrink down, the glue makes them seal up really nice. Obviously, black to the negative side of the battery and red to positive.



And that's it, the wiring is done. Visually verify all the wiring you just did and make sure it's all cleaned up and tucked away properly before testing. This is what the end results should look like.





And some final pictures of how I mounted the new RR along with the battery holder.





Hopefully someone finds this helpful and others give this a shot. I've seen lots of posts about issues with the stock charging system and the notorious white connector under the tank. This eliminates all those issues and makes the charging system solid and trouble free.

Just to show some basic testing I did before and after the change, here are the voltages that I measured at the battery.

**Stock charging system**
Ignition off: 12.71 volts
Ignition on, motor off, low beams on: 11.87 volts
Ignition on, motor running, low beams on: 13.40 volts

**Modified charging system with the FH012AA regulator/rectifier**
Ignition off: 12.71 volts
Ignition on, motor off, low beams on: 11.88 volts
Ignition on, motor running, low beams on: 14.20 volts

A slight gain seen there. I checked it again after going for a ride and the voltage were a little higher still, confirming that the system is working as designed. Running, at idle, the battery is now showing 14.5 volts or so.

Let me know what you guys think. Good, bad indifferent.

[ZachD]

That's pretty impressive, really. So, how much would you charge to do that if I bring my '02 fizzy to you?

[xtremewlr]

Originally Posted by ZachD

That's pretty impressive, really. So, how much would you charge to do that if I bring my '02 fizzy to you?

Do you have the stock airbox still? Get the parts and we can do the conversion sometime. No charge for it, I'm happy to help.

[ZachD]

Originally Posted by xtremewlr

Do you have the stock airbox still? Get the parts and we can do the conversion sometime. No charge for it, I'm happy to help.

I do have the stock airbox. Does that need to be eliminated for your charging system upgrade?

[xtremewlr]

Originally Posted by ZachD

I do have the stock airbox. Does that need to be eliminated for your charging system upgrade?

No, it doesn't. Just have to figure out the mounting for the replacement RR is all. The new RR is a little bigger than the stock one and we might run into space issues in the stock location. Shouldn't be too difficult to figure out tho. We might be able to relocate it into the tail somewhere too which I think might be preferable.

[ZachD]

Originally Posted by xtremewlr

No, it doesn't. Just have to figure out the mounting for the replacement RR is all. The new RR is a little bigger than the stock one and we might run into space issues in the stock location. Shouldn't be too difficult to figure out tho. We might be able to relocate it into the tail somewhere too which I think might be preferable.

Cool. I'm gonna do some noodling on a good location & then look into getting the needed parts. Could you PM me a parts list, so I don't omit anything? Thanks for the assistance. I want to put some driving lights on, but not without beefing up the charging system first.

[xtremewlr]

Originally Posted by ZachD

Cool. I'm gonna do some noodling on a good location & then look into getting the needed parts. Could you PM me a parts list, so I don't omit anything? Thanks for the assistance. I want to put some driving lights on, but not without beefing up the charging system first.

I'll post it here instead so everyone has the information.

Parts list for STOCK AIR BOX - stator wires need to be lengthened in this application:

~1 FH012AA Regulator/Rectifier - new or search ebay for 07+ R1, 06+ FJR or 07+ VStar XVS1300. Yamah part # 1D7-81960-00-00
~1 set of Furukawa plugs for the FH012AA RR, get them from here - http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...onnectors.html
~1 Metri-pack 280 ATM fuse holder for 12ga wire from here, order the "MP280 Fuseholder (14-12 AWG)" and specify 12ga in the notes when you pay - http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...seholders.html
~1 pack of 12ga wire in RED - AutoZone or similar
~1 pack of 12ga wire in BLACK - AutoZone or similar
~1 pack of 14ga wire in WHITE to extend the stator wires - AutoZone or similar
~1 pack of Ring terminals for 12ga wire - AutoZone or similar, look for "Weatherproof" if available.
~Heat shrink tube.
~30A ATM blade fuses, these are the small ones - AutoZone or similar

Pictures of all these parts are in my posts above for reference.

[eflyguy]

Very nice. Thanks!
..a

[Falcon 269]

I'm thinking I'll do this when I get around to changing the battery for a NiCad type which will free up space for the RR alongside the smaller battery.

Again, thanks for the very comprehensive and easy-to-follow explanation. Good stuff!

[xtremewlr]

My pleasure guys. I'm happy to be able to contribute something useful to the site considering that I have already pulled a bunch of great info off it myself.

[Slim Johnson]

Thanks for the link.

Nice work!

[eskort]

I'm thinking I'll do this when I get around to changing the battery for a NiCad type which will free up space for the RR alongside the smaller battery.

This regulator rectifier is designed for Pb acid, not Ni Cad--the charging curve foir NiCads is much different and you will ruin the battery from overheating and overcxharging using a Pb acid regulator. You'll need a Ni Cad/Nimh charger.

BTW, NI mh is a more robust technology than Ni cad and charges exactly the same. It also has about double the energy density.

[eskort]

There really is nothing wrong with the stock regulator to warrant replacing it for a bad connector. Yes the connector I specified is overkill but the idea was to make it beyond reliable.

In automobile electrical systems, every connector on the bike would be spec'd waterproof as all are exposed directly to water splash and rain. If you can find a good source of waterrproof connectors which are easy to install, then a waterproof connector of the proper current rating would be of benefit.

Heat management is a major concern for relocating the regulator--all the excess energy which doesn't get used, gets converted to heat and the heat needs good airflow to keep the electronics cool (and reliable). I've relocated mine to a spot where the stock horn used to be--up front so it catches the airstream. I'd be very cautious of relocating it by the airbox if air cannot freely flow on it, particularly at high rpms. With pods enuf air could probably get to it.

There is an early 2000's model Honda sport touring bike that eats regulators because of poor packaging and location.

Good luck with your mods!!

[xtremewlr]

Originally Posted by eskort

There really is nothing wrong with the stock regulator to warrant replacing it for a bad connector. Yes the connector I specified is overkill but the idea was to make it beyond reliable.

In automobile electrical systems, every connector on the bike would be spec'd waterproof as all are exposed directly to water splash and rain. If you can find a good source of waterrproof connectors which are easy to install, then a waterproof connector of the proper current rating would be of benefit.

Heat management is a major concern for relocating the regulator--all the excess energy which doesn't get used, gets converted to heat and the heat needs good airflow to keep the electronics cool (and reliable). I've relocated mine to a spot where the stock horn used to be--up front so it catches the airstream. I'd be very cautious of relocating it by the airbox if air cannot freely flow on it, particularly at high rpms. With pods enuf air could probably get to it.

There is an early 2000's model Honda sport touring bike that eats regulators because of poor packaging and location.

Good luck with your mods!!

The stock regulator works, I agree. I replaced it because I could and the mod outlined above is tried and proven to work better than the stock charging system on more bikes than just the FZ.

One of the issues I had with you mod is that, like I said, it seems to be more of a band-aid to the problem than a fix. The connector that seems to always fry with the stock setup is the power wire that feeds the battery. Besides the crappy factory connector, the wire is small, 14ga wire that is spliced into the rest of the wiring harness which is also only 14ga wire. If the connector can over heat and burn, I don't see why the wire itself can't have the same possibility. That's part of the reason the upgrade also includes going to a 12ga wire. Much less resistance than the smaller 14ga and therefore less heat. It also removes the charging wire from the rest of the harness and separates the whole charging system for better reliability and ease of troubleshooting if there ever is a problem.

As for relocating the regulator, one of the main advantages of the MOSFET style regulators over the stock SCR style regulators, beside better efficiency at regulating voltage, is that it runs cooler because of that better efficiency. The SCR shunt type consumes more energy in the Regulator itself than the bike is using and dumps a ton of current into the heatsink, causing it to run hotter. Even with the location that I chose, I can put my bare hand on the regulator immediately after a ride and it feels like it has been sitting in the shade all day, no warmer that room temperature. While I never tried this with the stock regulator, I'm betting it runs much hotter with the stock charging system. You even said it yourself, you relocated yours to the horn location to help make sure it stays as cool as possible. That's also probably why Yamaha mounted the stock regulators where they are from the factory, to get the most airflow possible to keep them cool.

While I can understand and appreciate your concerns, I suggest you either give the mod a try or research it some more via the links I provided. I don't claim to be an electrical expert but the information available is logical and makes a world of sense. And it's proven to work. Over and over again on hundreds of bikes. The stock system works but if it can be improved for better performance and reliability, then why not do it?

[xtremewlr]

Originally Posted by Falcon 269

I'm thinking I'll do this when I get around to changing the battery for a NiCad type which will free up space for the RR alongside the smaller battery.

Again, thanks for the very comprehensive and easy-to-follow explanation. Good stuff!

What eskort said about the NiCad battery makes sense. You sure you didn't mean LiFeP04 based batteries? I use Motty Design batteries and they have worked great. Along with excellent customer service from Brian, the owner.

Check these out for a smaller replacement battery. I'll be getting one for the FZ later down the road.

http://www.motydesign.com/product.ph...tery-hard-case