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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance > Gen 1 Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance

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Old 01-15-2012, 08:11 PM   #1
hoolighan
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2002 fz1 problems

I recently bought 2002 yamaha fz1 with 11.xxx miles. It was running fine for 3 days and then started acting up. Was turnung over but wouldnt start, i eventually i killed the battery!!Then i sprayed starting fluid, it helped! Started up but it was running on 3 cylinders. I changed spark plugs oil and it wouldnt help!!
Found a mechanic he told me that i probably got water in the carbs!!!
he pulled the carbs cleaned them it ran fine again for 3 days and then same problem. there was some fuel leaking from carbs!! gave it back to the guy, he pulled the carbs again told me that there was too many spacers on the needles therefore fuel were flooding spark plugs!! also he said the coils were connected the wrong way!! Picked it up and it ran fine again till today!! just came back from trying to start it and it turns over but does not start. Noticed some fuel leaking from carb number 1, from the rubber connector that attaches to the engine!!

The other thing is i have some issues with electrical system. sometimes when i try to start it it seems like battery is dead it turns over very slow and then resets the clock!! after i try again it cranks fine!! it has been doing this from time to time!! Please help it drives me nuts
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:29 PM   #2
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1st,

2nd, You need someone who actually knows how to work on the carbs.
Where are you?

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Old 01-15-2012, 09:12 PM   #3
hoolighan
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new york city
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:07 PM   #4
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Hey there Hooligan, welcome to the forum!

Here is a thread that may help you with the leak.

It is not too uncommon for the needle seat seals to wear out from the ethanol that is in our gas these days. Not a big deal to fix, and there may be someone willing to give you some of the nitrile O rings. I would, if I had them, however a fine member gave me a few to do the job, saving me the trouble of buying them! As far as the battery/starting issue, I don't really know... Have you cleaned the connections on the battery terminals? Some dielectric grease may help too. It will also keep the moisture out of the connection.

When you pulled the plugs, did you notice if they smelled of gas, or if they were wet? Also, did the mechanic that cleaned the carbs check the floats to make sure they were set properly? Tap the leaky carb with a screwdriver and see if that helps, as you may also have a sticky float (although, if the carbs were cleaned this would not likely be the issue..) I am also curious about your mechanic.. IIRC the coils are either working, or they aren't. Meaning if they are wired backwards they won't work. If they were mis-applied (1-2, 2-1 etc..) the bike wouldn't start at all. Add to that the fact that depending on how they were cleaned, some solvents will damage the seals and floats in the carburetors, making your situation worse.

Hopefully this helps some, as I am sure one of our resident experts will be along soon to correct me (or not) and help you further with your issue.

Good Luck!
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:59 PM   #5
hoolighan
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i tightened those clamp on the carb 1 boot and it stoped leaking. i pulled spark plug number one and it was wet, pulled number 4 it was wet and black. didnt pull 2 and 3 cuz they are such a pain in the ass to do so plus its freezing outside. Tried to start it, no luck!!! it turns but wont start!!!
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:59 PM   #6
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i tightened those clamp on the carb 1 boot and it stoped leaking. i pulled spark plug number one and it was wet, pulled number 4 it was wet and black. didnt pull 2 and 3 cuz they are such a pain in the ass to do so plus its freezing outside. Tried to start it, no luck!!! it turns but wont start!!!
Listen up, tightening the clamp did nothing. There should not be liquid fuel at that part of the carb.

You need to pull the carbs and fix whatever is going wrong in there. Most likely you need to install a new fuel filter in the line between the tank and carbs. I'd bet there is some rust in your tank already and it is only a matter of time before it gets past the fuel petcock and into your carbs to cause the float needle to stick open.

look at this diagram:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/CARBURETOR

What is probably wrong is that either the float needle (#18) has worn out (unlikely), tip gotten hard over time (possible), something (like rust) is jammed in between the float needle (bottom part in #18) and the seat (second from bottom part of #18) (possible), or o-ring (3rd from bottom part of #18) has failed (very likely) or float (#20) level is wrong (possible) or the idiot you had work on it before screwed it up worse (very possible).

I suggest you order new float needle and seat assemblies #18 and primary jets #23 for all 4 carbs.

THEN pull the carbs off the bike
THEN ONE AT A TIME: clean the carbs with carb cleaner and replace the parts 18 & 23 and set the float height.

Then reinstall on the bike.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:48 PM   #7
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Wet plugs means that you are getting too much fuel into the combustion chamber, which could be caused by a number of things, as motomania pointed out. One thing I would add, when/if you replace the needle seat O rings, use the nitrile variety listed in the thread I linked to, rather than the OEM type. The nitrile O rings will not rot from the Ethanol fuel like the natural rubber O rings do.

You can do a search on leaky carbs, or cleaning carbs to get an idea of what your next steps should be.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:08 PM   #8
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no rust in the tank!! Why it always runs fine for couple of day after worked on the carbs and then craps out!!!
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:13 PM   #9
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no rust in the tank!! Why it always runs fine for couple of day after worked on the carbs and then craps out!!!
It appears that the carbs have not been properly cleaned and adjusted. If you don't feel comfortble working on them, you need to find someone who can do the work correctly. If you can take them out you can send them to someone, otherwise, take the bike to someone. Maybe, you can take a chance on the guy that has already tried twice. Many here have pulled the carbs and fixed them when they had never done anything like that before. It is not terribly hard; It just takes going slow and carefully. There is plenty of help here. Also, see "pat's Page" (button, upper right of every page) for very detailed, step-by-step Instructions.

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Old 01-16-2012, 08:20 PM   #10
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this bike is driving me nuts!! before i bought it i had suzuki bandit 600s never gave me a problem!!! are yamaha fz1 known for so many issues?
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:43 PM   #11
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i guess i will give it to a real mechanic!!!!!
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:50 PM   #12
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no rust in the tank!! Why it always runs fine for couple of day after worked on the carbs and then craps out!!!
Well really fine rust particles will make it thru the filter screen in the tank eventually plugging up the previously cleaned carbs after a couple of days. Thus adding another filter between the fuel pump and the carbs should stop it.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:58 AM   #13
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Motomania is correct! Just do it.

Regarding Yamaha's....mine has 50k trouble-free miles. Clean gas, occasional carb cleaner just as a precaution, and regular oil changes and they run forever!

Welcome to the club!
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:51 AM   #14
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(He)told me that there was too many spacers on the needles therefore fuel were flooding spark plugs!! also he said the coils were connected the wrong way!! Picked it up and it ran fine again till today!!
This guy is full of BS. Flooding is usually caused by sticking floats. I bet that the pilot jets are clogged and He never touched the coils. Removing washers from the needles will lean out the mixture in mid and high rpm ranges. We have a bunch of members in the NY area who may be able to help you.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:34 PM   #15
hoolighan
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i started it today and its running on 3 cylinders, and if i let off the throttle it dies right away. giving it to the shop on thursday and we shall see!!
I love this bike but it has been nothing but nightmare!!
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:37 PM   #16
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The other thing,has anyone had this same electrical problem, when i try to start it from time to time it seems like it has a dead battery resets the clock
and when i try again its fine???? i already sprayed wd40 thru ignition!!
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:41 PM   #17
jpgrfan
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This guy is full of BS.
bigdave is right!


If there are added washers on the needles, there is probably a Holeshot jet kit installed. Whoever works on the carbs needs to be aware of that and make sure the setting are as specified for that kit. Again, it's not that tough to do, merely an awareness issue.

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Last edited by jpgrfan; 01-17-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:41 PM   #18
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Anybody know of a MC repair shop in the NYC area they can recommend to Hooligan?

BigDave's right...Whoever he's been going to is a POS thief.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:53 PM   #19
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The other thing,has anyone had this same electrical problem, when i try to start it from time to time it seems like it has a dead battery resets the clock
and when i try again its fine???? i already sprayed wd40 thru ignition!!
Start by cleaning your battery connections. Remove the negative lead first...leave it disconnected....remove the positive lead and clean it and re-attach it, then clean and re-attach the negative lead.

The reason you always remove the negative (grounded lead) first is so that you don't accidentally short the positive side to ground with any tools and create avery very hot dead short.

If that doesn't resolve the problem check the starter relay cables next. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:46 PM   #20
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Anybody know of a MC repair shop in the NYC area they can recommend to Hooligan?

BigDave's right...Whoever he's been going to is a POS thief.
Isn't there some fella named "Ivan" up in Congers who could most definitely help him ?

http://newyork.citysearch.com/profil...y_mtrcycl.html

http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/
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