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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance

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Old 01-12-2011, 11:35 AM   #1
AndyW
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My monster maintenance list

(posted yesterday but was lost in the migration)

Getting too cold to ride frequently, so I'm pulling her into the basement to start on the long list of items that need attention. I bought the bike @ 39k and she has 46k now, previous owner had her for >20k, and never did the valves or carbs, so they've probably never been done. I already put platinum plugs in, as well as re-lubed the swingarm/shock bearings and such when I put on a new chain/sprockets @ 43k. That's also when I had the forks rebuilt @ Traxxion.

My list:
Steering head rebuild (clicks around center)
Lube exup valve cables (did throttle and clutch late last year)
Valve check and adjust (46k and don't think it's ever been done)
Cam chain tensioner & gasket (just go ahead and order new?)
Coolant flush & replace
Carbs balanced
TPS adjust per ivan's method on pat's site (inspection seems to indicate it's already as far as it can go)
Remove brake calipers, flush system, thoroughly clean. Replace pads if close.
Front master cylinder rebuild (already have the kit ready)
Install LED bulbs in cluster.

Lower priority:
Wire permanent 12V outlet in fairing.
Move/check/replace horn wiring (sounds anemic)

Wish me luck!!
..a
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:43 AM   #2
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Damn, all my Gen I bashing was lost.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:04 PM   #3
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Looks like a good list!

I definitely want to do something about the horn.

I know there was a thread around here somewhere.
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:48 PM   #4
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How easy was the swingarm pivot bearing lube? I have not done mine yet, but considering soon. Got 20,000 on the bike (gen1). Also, how bad did your bearings look when you did it? Thanks.

Good luck with all the maintenance. Holy crap man....has it been cold over there or what?
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:05 PM   #5
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Bearings looked fine, but needed grease. Easy to do, just need the right size socket to get at it..
..a
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:32 PM   #6
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So the steering column is not clicking now that I've pulled the front end off. I'll disassemble anyway, but will I be able to tell if there's an issue on "unloaded" bearings?

Also, I removed a digital thermometer that was wired to what appears to be a thermister in the (water pump?) above the radiator on the right side. It has a 2-pin connector on it - is that usually going somewhere else? My "regular" high temp light is getting it's signal somewhere..
..a
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:07 PM   #7
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The bearings are likely flat spotted due to impact from having too much free play. I'd just go ahead and replace them. Make sure you adjust them per the manual, else repeat replacement.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:40 AM   #8
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If you decide to replace head bearings, I'd consider going the tapered roller route.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:04 AM   #9
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Is this the stock temp sensor/switch for the fan, and where does it normally "plug in"? I have no spare connector floating around under there (as stated, my 'aftermarket' thermometer was connected to it directly, along with ground and switched 12V power)
..a
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:10 AM   #10
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Another question to those that may have done this recently- is the steering head dissasembly documented anywhere else on the web?
I did find this:
http://www.fz1-forum.com/forum/garag...iscussion.html

Don't see it on Pat's site. I have the service manual, and will refer to that, of course.
..a
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:42 AM   #11
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https://www.allballsracing.com/22-1004.html
The best? Cheap enough.
..a
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #12
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I don't know if they are the best, but I used them last year on my FJR with no problems. IIRC the bearings were made in China.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eflyguy View Post
I went all balls to the wall when I did my head bearings... they deliver. Those same style bearings are in car wheels, they're not wearing out any time soon for our uses.

Also, be sure you have a nice brass drift on hand to knock out the old races. Alternatively, I know someone posted a tool that mushrooms out when you hit it, or you set it and then it it so the race comes out REAL easy since it directs the force of the impact even across the entire lip. If you don't want to buy a set of drifts buy some solid brass bar and grind it into the desired shape.

Oh and rent a race driver tool from AutoZone. Or buy one, they're handy for cars too. On the Gen II you can get away some flipping a ~30mm socket upside down and sticking an extension into the socket mouth and pounding on the socket extenstion. The race is hard enough that the socket won't mar it and it drives it in on the cheap; I don't know if you can do this on the Gen I sized races (they may even be the same size, no idea).

To get the new races in, FREEZE them, buy a block of dry ice and let them sit on the block for a bit. To get the bearing on freeze the stem. The stem/race seats/bearings/etc. are all very exacting tolerances.

All I can say is, I wish I knew all that before I dead my head bearings, ha!
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:11 PM   #14
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I'm finding there is no lip on the lower race inside the steering head. How the heck are you supposed to knock it out?
..a
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eflyguy View Post
I'm finding there is no lip on the lower race inside the steering head. How the heck are you supposed to knock it out?
..a
hmmm interesting, no notches in the neck either that might expose the race even a little?

If not I'd think your only option is a wedge or stud welder and slide hammer.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eflyguy View Post
I'm finding there is no lip on the lower race inside the steering head. How the heck are you supposed to knock it out?
..a
No lip but two deep recesses to accept a suitable drift.

Clearly visible in one of the photos here:

http://fazer1000.yuku.com/topic/3796/Fork-conversion
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:40 AM   #17
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OK, I saw those but it didn't look like the race was actually 'exposed' by the grooves. Excellent, thanks!

Where do you get the little spanner wrench that attaches to a torque wrench? I see plenty of ones that have their own handle, but then you're not able to torque the ring nuts correctly..
..a
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:09 AM   #18
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In pieces..
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:10 AM   #19
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Here's my pic of those grooves (well, one of them) - see how it appears there is cast material between the bottom of the groove and the race?
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:23 AM   #20
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Like this you mean?

I got mine from ebay but it's a genuine Yamaha 'special tool'. You should be able to find the same on ebay in the USA.
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