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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
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Any advice on performance & sprocket mods?
My 2001 FZ1 has about 30K miles on it. The rear sprocket has somewhat of an oval shape to it and needs to be replaced (aluminum - really???) So I've searched the forum, and read the two mods on Pat's Motorcycle Page for the 15 tooth front sprocket change and the 15/47 front/rear change.
It seems that most forum posts on the subject have the -1 tooth on the front (15T). I'm a very tame rider, I've never done (or want to do) a wheelie, and the bike has gone about 150mph twice in the almost 19 years I've owned it. This is my "really fun" commute-to-work bike, 50/50 neighborhood/highway use. It's always kind of bothered me how little difference there is between 5th and 6th gear at legal highway speeds, but I don't want to get too far away from the OEM specs. I'm just looking for real world pros & cons advice from FZ1 riders who've done sprocket mods. Thanks, Tim |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Windsor NY
Posts: 1,832
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Those mods will produce easy wheelies. IF you want to.
I run that combo. It makes for instant no downshift acceleration at highway speeds. It also makes for easier slow traffic riding due to less clutch work. |
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#3 |
Fire is our friend
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Foleadelphia, Wentzylvania
Posts: 7,191
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The original rear sprocket is steel. Your first step should be to find out what you really have on it now first.
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Don |
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#4 |
Hello ladies...
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Palo Alto,CA
Posts: 323,264,438
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An oval shape? Wtf?
There should be a number stamped on it that indicates how many teeth it has. As LS said, that’s not stock. |
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#5 |
Just enjoy the machine....
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 5,305
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I pull wheelies in 1st and 2nd, the bike accelerates very nicely even while 2-up, and I sure don't want more revs while on a highway run at 80-90. Stock gearing works for me, but the -1 on the front is common mod for some. Plus, the smaller sprocket gets more wear per mile, so, no thanks.
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-'03 FZ1- "Xena"- Custom Orange/Red paint- FuzzyOne mirror mod- SW Motech QR racks- Givi E460 top- E21 side cases- SS brake lines - Scorpion slip-on- R6 shock- Throttlemeisters- Sargent seat- R1 shift arm- Custom sprocket cover- Cheap ass battery- Extended passenger pegs - Gauge of Eternal Coolness - Valtermoto Rearsets - LEDs - |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central PA
Posts: 3,283
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
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Thanks for the replies! This helps me decide how to proceed. Also, please ignore my "aluminum" comment. That is what my cycle mechanic told me. This is the OEM 44T steel rear sprocket.
Also, the "oval" description is an exaggeration. What is happening is the chain will tighten and loosen as the wheel turns. I'm assuming a warped rear sprocket (hence the "oval"). My only workaround for right now is too have a little extra chain slack. Smaller front sprocket and/or larger rear sprocket means more engine revs to go a certain distance. Which also means worse gas mileage, an inaccurate speedometer and more wear & tear on components. Make sense? I'm leaning toward leaving it at the OEM specs: front sprocket at 16T and rear at 44T. I'll also do some of Pat's math to see what a 16T/46T does. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Victoria, MN
Posts: 371
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Tightening while turning indicates a chain that is stretched or links that are not pivoting smoothly . Highly doubtful it is a sprocket issue.
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#9 |
kinetic mentality
Join Date: May 2011
Location: hangin' with Toto
Posts: 12,947
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When you change the rear sprocket, ignore the torque specs in the manual for sprocket nuts. They are fairly soft metal and will strip or break if the specified torque is applied. I forget what the real recommended number is from users here, but it's quite a bit less than the spec.
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Patient zero. ![]() Partly stabilized, partly curious. Be your own man; don't be an owned man. Some people would rather be dead than wrong. |
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#10 |
Hello ladies...
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Palo Alto,CA
Posts: 323,264,438
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Never seen a warped sprocked. Would suspect the chain is shot. Check for links that are not flexible.
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#11 | |
Just enjoy the machine....
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 5,305
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Quote:
Also, the service manual calls out over 100 lb/ft for the axle nut. I stop at at about 80 for that. I've also been thinking about drilling for a cotter pin, but 70k and several rear tires, no issues so far. Also, it sounds like tight spots on the chain causing the tightening/loosening as the wheel is rotated. Usually once the chain develops tight spots, it is toast. With a 116 link chain you have 232 o-rings, which are there to keep the factory applied grease inside and prevent water/contaminants outside. All it takes is for one of those o-rings to become compromised, and chain destruction sets in. Keep it (mostly) clean and rust free for many miles of trouble free operation.
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-'03 FZ1- "Xena"- Custom Orange/Red paint- FuzzyOne mirror mod- SW Motech QR racks- Givi E460 top- E21 side cases- SS brake lines - Scorpion slip-on- R6 shock- Throttlemeisters- Sargent seat- R1 shift arm- Custom sprocket cover- Cheap ass battery- Extended passenger pegs - Gauge of Eternal Coolness - Valtermoto Rearsets - LEDs - |
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Victoria, MN
Posts: 371
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Quote:
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#13 |
Hello ladies...
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Palo Alto,CA
Posts: 323,264,438
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#14 |
kinetic mentality
Join Date: May 2011
Location: hangin' with Toto
Posts: 12,947
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The chain is definitely done. Best to replace it before it breaks and puts a hole in your engine case.
I am unable to recommend any chain lube products.
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Patient zero. ![]() Partly stabilized, partly curious. Be your own man; don't be an owned man. Some people would rather be dead than wrong. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Vancouver Washington
Posts: 83
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I use PJ1 Black Label chain lube every few rides. Just a quick spray before I ride and I'm good to go
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central PA
Posts: 3,283
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order from here when you do, that chain is shot
http://pjschurchofspeed.com/product-...sprockets-fz1/ |
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#17 |
Just enjoy the machine....
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 5,305
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__________________
-'03 FZ1- "Xena"- Custom Orange/Red paint- FuzzyOne mirror mod- SW Motech QR racks- Givi E460 top- E21 side cases- SS brake lines - Scorpion slip-on- R6 shock- Throttlemeisters- Sargent seat- R1 shift arm- Custom sprocket cover- Cheap ass battery- Extended passenger pegs - Gauge of Eternal Coolness - Valtermoto Rearsets - LEDs - |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
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Thanks!
Wow everyone, I'm so glad for all the discussion! Desmo and OldJeep are probably right, because as I introduced more slack into the chain, I see where the links are uneven and "sticking" now. And there is a little rust on it too. So I'll try cleaning and lubing the chain before doing any sprocket mods. Then a new chain first before anything else. Great forum! - Tim
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#19 | |
Hello ladies...
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Palo Alto,CA
Posts: 323,264,438
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Quote:
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#20 |
Just enjoy the machine....
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 5,305
|
![]() Start with a fresh chain and sprockets, maintain, then ![]()
__________________
-'03 FZ1- "Xena"- Custom Orange/Red paint- FuzzyOne mirror mod- SW Motech QR racks- Givi E460 top- E21 side cases- SS brake lines - Scorpion slip-on- R6 shock- Throttlemeisters- Sargent seat- R1 shift arm- Custom sprocket cover- Cheap ass battery- Extended passenger pegs - Gauge of Eternal Coolness - Valtermoto Rearsets - LEDs - |
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