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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance

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Old 02-13-2020, 06:46 PM   #1
phaseshifter
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Upper Cam Chain Guide

Can someone tell me how to remove and replace the little short cam chain guide that sits up in the cam cover? Thanks.
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Old 02-13-2020, 09:24 PM   #2
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https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a...camshaft-chain.

From the diagram it looks like it is directional in orientation. I'm guessing it press fits on two or three pins in the valve cover recess judging by the holes in the part. Might be some yamabond gasket adhesive as well. Do you have the new one?

I would think it would pry out with a sharp screw driver leveraged against those raised ridges along the ends.

Full disclosure...never done one.
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:36 AM   #3
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Thanks, yep you were right. I was afraid to pry on it for fear of breaking something else. But it came right out and new one pressed right in. No Yamabond.
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:54 AM   #4
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Good news, Does the new one sit proud of those raised bars on the ends (more so that the one you removed?

Are you replacing the chain?
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:45 PM   #5
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No there really was no wear on the old one. Oh well. Yes I put in a new chain. Question for you, if the T Mark on the pickup coil rotor is aligned with the mark on the crankcase mating surface, then #1 cylinder IS at TDC right?
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:49 PM   #6
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The reason I asked that question is because I reinstalled the cams and got everything all lined up and timed with the T Mark matching that mark on the crankcase and the punch marks on both cams lining up with the marks on the caps. Then reinstalled everything else and trued to start it. There was a very loud backfire out the exhaust and it would not start. I'm having doubts about getting it time right.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:52 PM   #7
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The manual says to align the T Mark with the mark on the crankcase and ensure cylinder #1 is TDC. If the marks are line up, doesn't that mean cylinder 1 is TDC?
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:06 PM   #8
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Never done it. You're getting ready to remove the chain and want crank at TDC on compression stroke.

The next para. about cam lobes tells how to confirm compression stroke

Turn the crankshaft clockwise
When piston #1 is at TDC on the compression
stroke, align the TDC mark "a" on the
pickup rotor with the crankcase mating surface
"b" .

Note
TDC on the compression stroke can be found
when the camshaft lobes are turned away from
each other.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:51 PM   #9
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Yeah I get the compression stroke. That just means all valves on cyl. 1 are closed, hense the lobes up and pointing away from each other. I just want to confirm that cyl. 1 is always at TDC when the T Mark is lined up with the mark on the crankcase.
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Old 02-15-2020, 07:59 AM   #10
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The simple way to answer the question would be to place a wooden dowell in the # cylinder spark plug hole and watch it go up and down as you rotate the crank by hand.

If you do that just be sure that it stays aligned straight up and down and doesn't get pinched by the cylinder rising.

The backfire on start up could be carb or timing related. I've never touched my valves and have occasionally had loud backfire over the years. You've messed with everything (carbs and valves) at this point. That makes you the guru.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:07 PM   #11
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It started right up today but that rattle is still there. It's sounding more and more to me like a bad rod bearing.
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Old 02-15-2020, 03:04 PM   #12
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Was hoping that wouldn't be what you reported.

I went back and listened to your video https://youtu.be/qzk0NUkYwSI
multiple times and I'm hard pressed to hear a knocking noise at all. You're there, so I'll take your word.

No quieter than before? Does the noise change as the motor gets warm? No smoke? I'm doubting you drove it after the carb work? Is water staying out of oil or is it too soon to know.

Are you thinking the debris got into the bearings or prevented flow to the bearings?

So to recap changes for others hopefully joining in:

- new carb air mixture screw adjustments

- valves adjusted

- oil / water pump seals replaced (but not bearing or impeller shaft). Done due water mixing with oil, due to failure from debris from valve chain tension sliders.

- new everything associated with valve chain and guides

- still making noise.
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Old 02-15-2020, 07:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phaseshifter View Post
It started right up today but that rattle is still there. It's sounding more and more to me like a bad rod bearing.
After going back to your first post and reading about how all the rattle started, I don't think you have a rod bearing going bad, because you say it started after you put the cam tensioner back in, and rod bearings do not last very long after they spin or flatten out, It sounds like you may have striped some of the teeth on the tensioner and now you have a tensioner that is ratcheting and not keeping a constant tension on the cam chain, I would pull it back out and check it for damage or even replace it. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:00 PM   #14
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I just put in a new tensioner so that's ruled out.

In the water pump, I did replace the impeller shaft. Only thing left in is the bearing which is fine. If it's not a crank bearing, I am at a complete loss. I took another video today. Will get it uploaded soon.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:17 PM   #15
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As I listen to this with headphones, it's not nearly as prominent as in person. Ignore the smoke at the end. I spilled coolant on the exhaust pipes.
https://youtu.be/ot5LfxK-odw
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:56 PM   #16
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Ok, so the rattle all started after a valve adjustment, you have ruled out the cam chain tensioner, I would pull the valve cover back off and recheck the valves look for a really loose one, it is possible that one of the shims under the bucket is missing or the wrong size from the sound of it in the video it sounds like it's on the right side of the motor, you may even have to run the motor with the valve cover off to find where the rattle is coming from, good luck.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:21 PM   #17
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Actually it started after my mess up with the cam chain tensioner. See my post "time to fess up". I've checked, double checked and rechecked the valve spacings and they are within spec.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:22 PM   #18
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But at this point I'm ready to try anything so might as well go back in and make sure no shims are missing. Nothing to lose now.
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:10 PM   #19
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I think I may have discovered the issue. I decided to pull the cams and buckets to make sure all the shims were there. I used a magnet to get the buckets out and the shims came with them all stuck to the magnet. All were there. I pulled the shims out of the bucket and placed them back in the pocket on top the valve. I noticed they were a very tight tolerance and had to wiggle them down into the pockets. Then replaced the buckets. All this one at a time of course.

The thing is, when I pulled those buckets out before out of curiosity, the shims were stuck to the underside of the buckets so I just left them there and put the buckets back in. But I don't really know if the shims actually went all the way into their respective pockets or not. I guess I'll find out when I put the cams back in and check the gaps. Fingers crossed.
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