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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance

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Old 06-21-2019, 08:49 AM   #1
isleoman
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Gen 1 Plug Cap : Update go to last post

Was checking spark plugs. When I got #4 cap off I could see the cap had a couple tears in it after it exits the top of the cylinder cover.

Cleaned plug, reinstalled and taped up the outside of the plug boot. Bike's running fine and all cylinders are hot. So no hurry finding a solution.

Started looking for a replacement plug cap/boot. Every thing I'm seeing for Gen 1s are fairly old and expensive $40+ by the time you buy the attached coil.

Individual caps are still available on Partshark but $50 a piece.

Anyone ever used a FZ6R plug cap. Only difference seems to be 45 degree angle after it exits the cylinder head cover's spark plug well. I can buy two FZ6R coils with four caps for $20 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-11-12...oAAOSwh21aZnUj


I would only use the plug caps, Seems there are three issues, coil wire diameter, cylinder head spark plug well diameter and depth, and the resistance.

From eye ball it appears the first two are very close. I would think I could just change the resistor in the plug cap with the one from my Gen 1, if necessary.

Anyone found a cheap alternative for plug caps? The standard FZ6 cap is 10 ohms resistance same as FZ1. Haven't found info on FZ6R.

Last edited by isleoman; 07-12-2019 at 11:12 AM. Reason: not working as planned
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:30 PM   #2
isleoman
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Found a manual for the 09 FZ6R and the caps are removable and 10 ohms resistance. So should be just a matter of fit.

The first Gen R1 caps/coils are expensive as well
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:57 AM   #3
isleoman
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The FZ6r plug caps do work. Paid $18 for two coils with four caps. 1/2 as expensive and 1/2 as old as FZ1 coils. Both bike's plug caps use the same inner spring and 10 ohm resistor and screw that hold them in and captures the spark plug top.

When installed the FZ6r's upper cap sits proud of the ridge around the FZ1's spark plug well hole. I took a 3/8" drill bit and reamed out the inner shoulder by a little less than a 1/4 " in depth.

Put it all back together and bike fires right up. I suspect the coils would be interchangeable as well but don't need them yet.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:33 PM   #4
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Can you post a pic of where you had to ream? I busted my #3 plug and was wondering if I could replace it with a FZ6 since there easier to find on ebay.
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:47 PM   #5
isleoman
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Before doing anything remove your FZ1 cap and place the replacement FZ6r cap on the plug. See if it sits proud of the ridge. If yes move on.



This what your drilling. Remove the capture screw, ballast, and spring. You need to find the right size straight blade screw driver to get those out. Then insert drill and use tape on drill to set depth 1/4" more than when it bottoms on the shoulder. The shoulder is plastic and gives way pretty easy. I didn't do any pre-drilling, just the one below. I used a knife to cut a 1/4 inch of the boot as well but that may not be required. Try just drilling first.

Your trying to remove the shoulder the capture screw bottoms on so it sinks deeper, without ruining the threads the capture screw needs.



This a 3/8" I wanted it flat as opposed to tapered.
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Old 07-03-2019, 04:14 PM   #6
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Thank you I m ordering plugs today
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Old 07-03-2019, 06:39 PM   #7
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Last suggestion is to drill slow and drill upwards ie hold cap in vertical position above the drill.

That will reduce the amount of swarf that could fall down into the area the spring and resistor sit in. While you have them out rub the resistors on emery or black sand paper to clean the ends.

The 45 degree angle of the boot above the valve cover works fine possibly better at least for #4 cylinder.
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Old 07-04-2019, 05:30 PM   #8
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Why not just remove the resistor ?Thats right you can remove it but you need to make sure you use resistor spark plugs at all times, guys have bin doing it for a long time I did my FZ when I got it ( 3 years ago ) one less thing to go wrong. Use a stainless steel or copper bolt the same diameter cut to the same size as the resistor, in it's place, put it together and your done.
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Old 07-04-2019, 05:52 PM   #9
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I should ad you can use Yamaha FJR 1300 04-08 coils they work and plug caps boots work with no mods.
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:06 AM   #10
isleoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizbyu View Post
Why not just remove the resistor ?Thats right you can remove it but you need to make sure you use resistor spark plugs at all times, guys have bin doing it for a long time I did my FZ when I got it ( 3 years ago ) one less thing to go wrong. Use a stainless steel or copper bolt the same diameter cut to the same size as the resistor, in it's place, put it together and your done.
Thanks for the ideas.

Removing the resistor doesn't lower the spark plug cap onto the ridge on top of the valve cover to get a complete weather seal.

Like the women shoppers...... we're trying to find cheap boots. Not really looking for a new type of spark plug. How much would those add to the bill?

We both looked at FJR and FZ1 caps and they are $45 to $60 used on ebay for a single coil with two plug caps. The FZ1 caps used are quite old. A single new FZ1 or FJR spark plug cap is $50.

For the FZ6r coils I paid $18 for two coils and four caps. The coils are likely interchangeable as well. There are a ton of them on ebay.

The drilling takes two minutes. The joy of finding a cheaper alternative last a lifetime for a cheapskate.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:48 AM   #11
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I checked and cleaned the spark plug boots and resistors on my '02 FZ1 several years ago. The resistance from cylinder to cylinder varied more than I liked (>10%), so I bought some new resistors. I bought some universal NGK plug boots, LB10E (confirmed). The NGK LB10E spark plug boots are pretty cheap. Here is a link:

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=20080

Last edited by arkie6; 07-06-2019 at 08:52 PM. Reason: Confirmed that it was NGK model LB10E
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Old 07-05-2019, 05:33 PM   #12
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https://www.amazon.com/NGK-LB10E-Res...SIN=B0018JUL6A

Arkie , your link didn't work for me but this link shows the LB10E cap. I had seen those before buying the FZ6r caps but from the photo I never thought they would be close to deep enough, especially with the 90 degree bend. Those are dirt cheap if that's the right cap number.

The FZ1 OEM caps are straight above the valve cover, the FZ6r are 45 degree.

The other thing that steered me away from that design was the lack of the top cap that seals above the valve cover. What happens to water that gets in that area around the base of the plug? Does it come out of the hole on the left side of the engine or do you get mosquitoes growing in there?

Last edited by isleoman; 07-05-2019 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:48 PM   #13
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Note that I did not use the entire LB10E cap, I just used the 10k ohm resistor out of them and installed the new resistors in my FZ1 plug caps. That was the cheapest way that I could get those resistors.

The NGK LB10E caps directly from NGK are $1.90/ea. Shipping from NGK to me is $5.19, so the total for the 4 plug caps is $12.79.
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Old 07-05-2019, 07:10 PM   #14
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Arkie, When I re-read your post (which is clear) it now makes sense.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:28 PM   #15
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You just have to look and wait for the right price, I have a set off a 2008 FJR I paid 45 bucks with free shipping, and keep in mind that you can contact most sellers and make a offer, I do that all the time and save lots of money, the coils I got were listed for 65 bucks got them for 45, But I get what your saying about women and boots, but why pay 20 bucks for dark brown when you really want black and there only 10 bucks more.As for the the mod cap it sits the same as it came off , your just removing the resistor and putting a copper spacer in it's place, you wont get any more HP but you have a cap that dose not fail from a bad resistor some guys say there bikes start better and idle smoother, who knows I do it to not have a problem down the road as in 100 miles from my house.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:29 AM   #16
isleoman
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Important Update:

The first FZ6r plug cap has been on and working well for about 300 miles.

When I tried to do another one yesterday the drilling of the top shoulder was NOT reducing the height of the plug cap when it's installed.

Drilled some more and the inner threaded plastic tube that houses the spring and resistor cracked and fell apart.

I took my old Gen 1 cap and cut it lengthwise through the cap to create a cross section to see what's going on.

The top shoulder is one stop for the retaining screw. My thought was that the bottom of the inner tube had space below the bottom of the screw for it to continue down once the shoulder is removed by 1/4".

There really isn't any additional depth on the bottom for the screw to continue down with out drilling the bottom as well as the top shoulder. Not sure why it worked on the first cap but I'm guessing the screw cut some new threads in the inner tube with out splitting it. Speaking of thread it's 5/16-24 which is common in most tap and die sets.

I'll post a pic of the cross section and it will be easy to understand.

If you've already bought some FZ6r caps you may want to see the pic before starting. It looks now like the bottom will need to be drilled 1/4" deeper as well. May have to tap.

If you haven't bought any of these caps you may want to make sure the savings is worth the effort.
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Old Yesterday, 12:09 PM   #17
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I wasn't able to get a flush tight fit like the original spark boot around the top of the spark plug hole but with a masonry drill bit I was able to cut some of the material down to where it wasn't siting way above the boot hole when first installed. I will have to wait until I gets some parts for my water pump that I'm rebuilding before I can start it.
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