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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > FZ1 Problems & Issues > Gen 1 Problems & Issues

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Old 07-11-2019, 05:14 AM   #21
reubswinks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldjeep View Post
Well, isn't this fun. Put it all back together and it is behaving in the exact same way. #4 header is cool at idle and the other 3 are hot. Also have a neat little pop when I let off the throttle after revving it.

Things that were done
1) Removed AIS
2) removed carb cooling hoses
3) complete carb refit (jets, O-rings, pilot screw, needle and seat, rods
4) swapped the 1/4 coil with another one

Still need to road test it and see if it rides decent. And I did get an adapter for my compression tester so I can do that later when it cools down.

Ugg
Seems like you are on the right track. Only thing left is compression. Might find out that your valves need some shimming maybe. Might be worth changing that plug anyways, even though it doesn't have many miles on it. Are they oem plugs? Also I imagine when you had the carbs off you would have seen if somehow you had something sitting in the air-inlet boot to carb 4, but if you didn't look, might give that a check also.
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:21 AM   #22
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Seems like you are on the right track. Only thing left is compression. Might find out that your valves need some shimming maybe. Might be worth changing that plug anyways, even though it doesn't have many miles on it. Are they oem plugs? Also I imagine when you had the carbs off you would have seen if somehow you had something sitting in the air-inlet boot to carb 4, but if you didn't look, might give that a check also.
NGK plugs - oem spec
Checked the boots, even went so far as to vacuum them and the airbox to make sure that somehow there was not a mouse nest.

Drove it last night - about 40 miles and it seems to operate fine - as it did before. #4 header is still way cooler. Still need to do the compression test

Also need to order a carb sync tool - just because
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:23 PM   #23
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Late to the party , but when you say a little pop when you let off after revving it , is the pop coming from the exhaust or dose it sound like from the air box, you could have a bad valve, and that would be why you have a bad plug and cool pipe.
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Old 07-22-2019, 05:14 PM   #24
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Put another 150 miles or so on it and the #4 plug is dark again. Did a compression test and all cylinders are 120 ish. My carb sync tool showed up so I put that on and they are way off. Idle seems to be too low, need to pick up a dwell tach - used to being able to use ODB or MEFI scanner to get a real reading. The #2 cylinder is the only one anywhere near the spec 225mm/hg, the other are way low. Once I get the idle set in spec then I'll start trying to get these things set properly.

vid of the carbtune
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr2f...ature=youtu.be

Anyone have a suggestion for an inductive tach?
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Last edited by oldjeep; 07-22-2019 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:48 PM   #25
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If you saw the sync is off and you have the Carbtune, why can't you correct it?

The tach on the bike is all I ever use.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:35 PM   #26
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If you saw the sync is off and you have the Carbtune, why can't you correct it?

The tach on the bike is all I ever use.
Guess I can, just used to needing more accuracy than a dial tach.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:52 PM   #27
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So the last thing after this, is a valve check?
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:57 PM   #28
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So the last thing after this, is a valve check?
Seems like it. And that looks like a ton of fun
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:00 PM   #29
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The challenge is to get all the readings on the carbtune the same. The idle rpm can be set after you balance the
the carbs.

If you saw the sync is off and you have the Carbtune, why didn't you correct it?
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:51 AM   #30
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The challenge is to get all the readings on the carbtune the same. The idle rpm can be set after you balance the
the carbs.

If you saw the sync is off and you have the Carbtune, why didn't you correct it?
Why? Because the fsm says to first set idle to 1050, sync, set idle, repeat. So I figured that I would start at step 1.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:26 AM   #31
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OK
Your video makes me want to adjust those screws.
Guess I've been doing it wrong all these years, appreciate the info and good luck with the bike.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:47 AM   #32
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Put another 150 miles or so on it and the #4 plug is dark again. Did a compression test and all cylinders are 120 ish. My carb sync tool showed up so I put that on and they are way off. Idle seems to be too low, need to pick up a dwell tach - used to being able to use ODB or MEFI scanner to get a real reading. The #2 cylinder is the only one anywhere near the spec 225mm/hg, the other are way low. Once I get the idle set in spec then I'll start trying to get these things set properly.

vid of the carbtune
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr2f...ature=youtu.be

Anyone have a suggestion for an inductive tach?
The rpm isn't critical. Do the adjustment at any RPM that's relatively low, the dash tach is more than accurate for this. Get it fairly close then lower the rpm to about 1050 and do it again. Its a three step process. You balance each pair of carburators first then you balance the two pairs with each other. The adjustment screws are VERY sensitive.

I would do this BEFORE you dive into the valve adjustment. Its much easier.
Eliminate the simple stuff first.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:50 AM   #33
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Yup, it is on the agenda for tonight.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:13 PM   #34
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Set the idle to around 1100. Got the carbs all reading about the same after a trip to home depot for an 8 inch screwdriver. Now the are all reading around 18cm/hg which is well below the spec of 22.5 I don't see anything in the manual about setting the baseline with anuthing other than idle speed.
Question, would having the exup wired full open cause lower vacuum at idle? Havnt got around to putting the new cables on yet.

Seems a bunch smoother at idle and coming off idle. Need to ride it tomorrow and see how it feels. Also need to borrow or buy a digital readout timing light so I can see the actual rpm. But seems like progress.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:59 PM   #35
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The Service Manual says 8.86 with a idle of around 1050 to 1150, I just did mine last sunday, all mine are at 8.50 with a idle on the bikes tack at 1250-1300, as for exup I doint know if it makes a difference, my guess is it don't, my exup has bin removed I don't feel the need for it
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:39 AM   #36
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Set the idle to around 1100. Got the carbs all reading about the same after a trip to home depot for an 8 inch screwdriver. Now the are all reading around 18cm/hg which is well below the spec of 22.5 I don't see anything in the manual about setting the baseline with anuthing other than idle speed.
Question, would having the exup wired full open cause lower vacuum at idle? Havnt got around to putting the new cables on yet.

Seems a bunch smoother at idle and coming off idle. Need to ride it tomorrow and see how it feels. Also need to borrow or buy a digital readout timing light so I can see the actual rpm. But seems like progress.
Now all 4 cylinders are working equally at VERY low throttle positions. It wont affect the performance at larger throttle openings. As far as the Exup is concerned, it may affect the vacuum level at idle but I don't think it matters what that number is. What is important is that they are all the same.

The Exup creates backpressure. At lower throttle positions it is closed and it is restricting exhaust flow through the engine so that more torque is developed at lower rpm. (I don't understand exactly why, but it does).
At higher throttle positions (which you have simulated) it is wide open so that backpressure is less and more exhaust gas is evacuated from the cylinders. This causes an increase in vacuum and a corresponding increase in the volume of the fuel/air charge which means more HP at higher RPM.

There are a lot of other factors like spark advance, valve overlap timing and lengths of intake and exhaust plumbing, but as far as the Exup is concerned that is my best explanation (educated guess) as to why your numbers were higher than the spec.

Keep us posted on your situation. Good Luck!
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:17 AM   #37
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Now all 4 cylinders are working equally at VERY low throttle positions. It wont affect the performance at larger throttle openings. As far as the Exup is concerned, it may affect the vacuum level at idle but I don't think it matters what that number is. What is important is that they are all the same.

The Exup creates backpressure. At lower throttle positions it is closed and it is restricting exhaust flow through the engine so that more torque is developed at lower rpm. (I don't understand exactly why, but it does).
At higher throttle positions (which you have simulated) it is wide open so that backpressure is less and more exhaust gas is evacuated from the cylinders. This causes an increase in vacuum and a corresponding increase in the volume of the fuel/air charge which means more HP at higher RPM.

There are a lot of other factors like spark advance, valve overlap timing and lengths of intake and exhaust plumbing, but as far as the Exup is concerned that is my best explanation (educated guess) as to why your numbers were higher than the spec.

Keep us posted on your situation. Good Luck!
One thing to note. My numbers are lower than the spec.
Spec is 22.5cm/hg
Mine are reading around 18cm/hg

The spec that wizbyu quoted (8.86) is 8.86 in/hg which = 22.5cm/hg (not sure where he found an in/hg carb sync tool but I guess that is why they list both standard and metric values in the FSM)
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:39 PM   #38
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One thing to note. My numbers are lower than the spec.
Spec is 22.5cm/hg
Mine are reading around 18cm/hg

The spec that wizbyu quoted (8.86) is 8.86 in/hg which = 22.5cm/hg (not sure where he found an in/hg carb sync tool but I guess that is why they list both standard and metric values in the FSM)
Didn't realize wizbyu was using different units of measure.

LOL Guess my theory was all wet. Sorry.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:09 PM   #39
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I guess I should explain a little better, Yamaha Service Manual for the FZ 1 , says ( vacuum pressure 30 kPa ) (225 mm Hg, 8.86 in Hg )I use a liquid filled vacuum gauges like the one in the photo as you can see it reads in ( in Hg )It dose not matter what type of gauges you use just get all the carbs set to read the same.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:43 PM   #40
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Feels a lot smoother now that carbs are in sync. #4 still running cold. After 40 miles the pipes on 1-3 were 160f and 4 was 110F

Damn thing keeps running better with every change, but still not quite right.
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