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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 07-16-2017, 04:01 PM   #21
YamahaMan444
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I just did my SV650 with a whole overhaul. (Did a great job as evidenced by my track day today). I cheated. Used a 60cc vet Syringe and tubing and half a bottle of Belray race fluid. Pushed the fluid up to the MC from the bleeder. That's the magical thing. Barely an air left in the line at all
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Old 07-16-2017, 04:37 PM   #22
Stella Blue
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One of the posters above said you'd not be able to see a difference, but that you would be able to feel a difference.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:18 PM   #23
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I hate to take the calipers apart but if I have to I will but first I'll remove the pads and pump the lever & see if the pistons don't move at the same rate, I think this will show which ones are installed wrong. if the oil seal makes a lip in one direction it must be the groove shape because the seal doesn't have a lip at all.
I'll do that & report back. I am riding the bike with weak brakes & a bald rear tire (new tire on the way)
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:46 PM   #24
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I couldn't get my rear brake to stiffen up no matter how many times I bleed it until I got a mighty vac and for some strange reason it was fine after using it. Considering I rarely if ever use the rear brake it wasn't a big deal but I do like everything working correctly so...
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:39 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodys2718 View Post
While I have a firm brake lever (just as firm as before) my front brakes now suck.
Did you happen to get any brake fluid on the pads? I installed SS lines on my bike and accidentally got some fluid on the pads. Made them virtually useless. Put some new pads on and it was back to normal.
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:37 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klj7734 View Post
I couldn't get my rear brake to stiffen up no matter how many times I bleed it until I got a mighty vac and for some strange reason it was fine after using it. Considering I rarely if ever use the rear brake it wasn't a big deal but I do like everything working correctly so...
Somebody's got to say it. So, you used a mighty vac to stiffen it up?
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:18 PM   #27
Woodys2718
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Did you happen to get any brake fluid on the pads? I installed SS lines on my bike and accidentally got some fluid on the pads. Made them virtually useless. Put some new pads on and it was back to normal.
I don't think so but I won't rule this out. There was a little spillage when I removed the oem bleeders an installed the speed bleeders. I did have rags by the bleeder and not much came out. I was pretty quick with the swap.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:36 PM   #28
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Most people don't do this but the caliper (past the bleeder nipple) holds a little bit fluid as well. You might have air in there. Try unbolting the caliper, and pushing both pistons in as far as they will go by prying the pads apart.

The rear is a slider on one piston so you can just push the caliper towards the rotor to push the fluid back.

But on the front, you'll have to unbolt the caliper and pry the pads apart to push the fluid back into the reservoir, getting any air that might be caught in there out as well. Helped me tremendously when I was doing my brakes.
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Last edited by okrider; 07-17-2017 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Make it more clear
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:45 PM   #29
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Finally got it right, I did not mention that I also rebuilt the master cylinder, I thought I did a good job but remembered the I couldn't rotate the circlip to make sure it seated properly, everything looked good before I installed the rubber dust boot but apparently it wasn't seated properly.

I took off a radial brake master that I had on my other dead bike, installed it & bled the brakes, now it works great. I will re do the stock master & put it on my other bike.

Things I learned:
1- the seals of the calipers DO NOT have a correct orientation or a lip, just make sure they are in their grooves & can be spun easily.
2- the banjo of any SS brake line can be rotated without damaging the line to orient it to the master cylinder, in my case, the bolt holding the line goes underneath the master, not in front like the stock master.
3- The radial master offers better modulation & has better progressive feel
4- The cheap Chinese $16.00 brake pads (for both calipers) are just as good as expensive brake pads
5- It is a MUST to clean the caliper cylinders while they are protruding out before depressing them in to install new pads, this caused me to high side once because the brakes just grabbed & stopped the front wheel. seals can be reused if they are not leaking & have tears.

Thanks to everyone who offered help.
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Old 07-18-2017, 06:00 PM   #30
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On my gen 2 they do, sorry if I caused you a problem, I see your bike is gen 1.
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Old 07-18-2017, 06:12 PM   #31
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Glad you finally got it figured out. It's always a good feeling.
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Old 07-18-2017, 06:28 PM   #32
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Apparently some other bike calipers have the "lip" on the seal.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DC_Id6rgP3g
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Old 07-18-2017, 06:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryc View Post
Apparently some other bike calipers have the "lip" on the seal.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DC_Id6rgP3g
yes, my Yamaha Vmax seals do have a lip, a slope but its clearly visible looking at it, that's why I understood what you said perfectly.
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:10 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Stella Blue View Post
Somebody's got to say it. So, you used a mighty vac to stiffen it up?
LMAO
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