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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance > Gen 1 Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance

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Old 04-15-2015, 12:30 AM   #61
jewilson
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I amazed that people still care about this.
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:22 PM   #62
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Is anyone still into this?

I'm in the midst of trying to figure out what carb mods the PO did to my '04 FZ1. He told me it had a jet kit and mentioned ported intakes. The mains are 127.5, so I know they're not from Ivan. The rubber cover that goes on top of the air box had a hole cut in it. The clips were in the 2nd from the top groove on the needles.
I took a picture of the intake manifold today, hoping some one can tell me if its been ported but the file size is too large.
So, to start with, can someone tell me a site where I can resize the pic? Also, does the info I posted re: jet size and hole in the cover sound familiar to anyone?
THANKS!
Willie
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:40 PM   #63
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Seems like the replacing the gaskets is a good place to start. I had several different jet kits and the Ivan setup is good but the hole shoot one work just about as well. The Jets that Ivan and Dale recomend are great starting points and the 127 are a good place to start, 130 are to much. It real easy to over jet the motor and a hassle to change them . As for as the air box goes I'd remove it and get some K&N filters and matching the boots will help too. The real gold is getting the throttle to respond smoothly.

There are some detailed info that I and others have written about setting the carbs look around the site.
My FZ1 is broke and has been that way for a few years. House remodeling taking my time and the rest has been used up by surgeries, waiting for another back surgery next month.

I have a note book with all the mods and performance changes just not sure where it at.

Good luck
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:02 PM   #64
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Quote:
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I'm in the midst of trying to figure out what carb mods the PO did to my '04 FZ1. He told me it had a jet kit and mentioned ported intakes. The mains are 127.5, so I know they're not from Ivan. T
Ivan's MB kit (Modified 'Box) has 127.5 mains so it's a good chance yours has Ivan's kit fitted. It's the best out there, not wishing to restart an argument that has gone on for decades, because of the multi-profile needle Ivan supplies. The e-clip on second groove would be correct provided that just the 3.0mm nylon spacer is fitted. Don't include the 0.5mm metal shim as found with the stock needle set-up.

I can't help with resizing photos but it's a fair bet someone has installed the MB kit and a K&N or similar filter. The airbox lid interior should be modified as well, if you check it, along with the intake stubs.

If you fit individual K&N filters (actually, they're paired) you'll need also to fit velocity stacks inside to prevent a nasty flatspot off-idle. There's no performance advantage to going this route, either. My advice - based on installing several hundred of Ivan's kits - is to retain the airbox, modify the lid correctly and fit a BMC air filter.
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Last edited by Falcon 269; 04-29-2017 at 07:40 AM. Reason: Correct error on needle shim arrangement.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:53 AM   #65
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Thanks for responding guys. I spoke with Ivan yesterday about my findings and he asked for the needle diameter to determine if its his. I'll be calling him back this morning with that info. Then, I'll have a better idea how to proceed. In hindsight, I should've mentioned the airbox has a K&N in it. I'll look at the underside of the lid when I mic the needle and report back.
I can't help but be impressed, if not overwhelmed, with all the info there is on this topic on this forum. But based on the date of the last posts I had to wonder if anyone would respond.
Thanks again.
FWIW, a house remodeling job, among other projects, has delayed my working on this bike for far too long. So, Jim, I can definitely relate to your situation and wish you the best of luck and a speedy recovery from your next surgery.
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:37 AM   #66
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It appears the underside of the lid has been modified. According to Ivan, the needles are his. That's a relief. Unfortunately, he wasn't able to talk very long but did mention that the mains should be 127.5. That's both a surprise and a relief. I guess I'll put the clips in the grooves stated in the directions, back the screws out another 1/2 turn (4 1/2 total) and see what happens.
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:11 AM   #67
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K&N has single pod filter for each carb, then you can toss that air box and the performance will improve too. Ivan's needles are different than the others as the taper is more gradual. Smoother response at low rpm, no effect on passed about 6-7k rpms.

Once you get into this you will need to sync the carbs to make it run smooth.

Good Luck
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:37 PM   #68
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Clips are back in the groove specified. Now, I'd like to make certain the float level is correct. I'll do some searching here and reread the directions on Pat's site for the proper procedure. The question I'm hoping to find an answer to is how to determine when the float tab first makes contact with the float needle. I've gone so far as to watch the movement while wearing a magnifying glass headset. It seems to me that the tab is always in contact with the needle.
As for switching to single pod filters. That's gotta make pulling the carbs easier but won't it require larger mains?
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Old 04-28-2017, 04:13 PM   #69
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I loved my pods, you can have the carbs on and off in less than an hour. K&N uses only two pods, if you look at holeshot performance you can see them. You will need a battery bracket and crankcase vent if switching.
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:43 PM   #70
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You will need a battery bracket and crankcase vent if switching.
Good to know.
Does someone sell the bracket, or do I have to make it myself?
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:37 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie View Post
Clips are back in the groove specified. Now, I'd like to make certain the float level is correct. I'll do some searching here and reread the directions on Pat's site for the proper procedure. The question I'm hoping to find an answer to is how to determine when the float tab first makes contact with the float needle. I've gone so far as to watch the movement while wearing a magnifying glass headset. It seems to me that the tab is always in contact with the needle.
As for switching to single pod filters. That's gotta make pulling the carbs easier but won't it require larger mains?
The correct groove for 2003 onwards (3mm nylon spacer) is the second from the top. Nylon spacer only, no 0.5mm shim required below the e-clip. You may have raised your needle too high if you've put the e-clip on the 3rd groove and included the shim as well.

What you're looking to see when setting the floats is the point when the float tab rests on the needle but doesn't actually depress it. Let the floats fall right away from the needle valve first, then slowly rotate the carb bank back until the float comes to rest. Now, if you tip it a little further, the float will move again as it depresses the needle valve. You set the float height with the float at rest, not depressing the valve. Hard to explain but a few experimental runs should show you what I mean. The tab should only be fractionally bent from horizontal, less than 0.5mm. Any more suggests the float height hasn't been correctly adjusted.

I can pull and refit carbs in 30 minutes with the standard airbox fitted. It's just a matter of technique.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:30 AM   #72
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Good to know.
Does someone sell the bracket, or do I have to make it myself?
Yes, look at holeshot performance. I'm sure he would sell you the bracket and filters
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:53 AM   #73
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Thanks Falcon, for the additional info. I'll check the float height as soon as possible and report back. The nylon spacers are all 2.5 mm thick. I'm hoping I followed the instructions on Pat's site when I put the metal shim on top of the clip, the clip in the 3rd groove and the nylon spacer only under the clip.
I can only hope this is right because the directions are for 122.5 mains and not the 127.5 that I have.
FWIW, when I 1st opened them up, the clips were in the 2nd groove and both the spacer and the shim were under the clip.
Also, in case I didn't mention it already: my airbox lid has been trimmed (and smoothed) on the underside, there's a K&N element inside and, I believe, I have ported intake manifolds.
With all of this in mind, do you think the clip position (3rd from the top w/spacer under it) is correct?
I really appreciate everyone's help.
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:10 AM   #74
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Willie, with 2.5mm spacers you've followed the instructions correctly. The process is the same regardless of main jet size.

What's slightly odd is that yours in supposedly an 04 model which should have had 3mm spacers as stock. Early to mid 2003, Yamaha fitted a mix of spacers - 2.5mm on two needles and 3mm on the other pair. Then, from mid 2003 onwards they all became 3mm.

I wonder if yours is registered 04 but a 2003 model from older dealer stock?

What you found on first inspection may have been the previous owner's attempt to fatten up the mixture even more than Ivan's settings. In my experience, this would be too rich but who knows in this case?
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:01 AM   #75
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The float the is very important at low speed and wot so get set correctly. The 122 are like stock size jets, obviously size depend on on number of factors, my, FZ like a little less jet size, even with pods and a full exhaust, it good to purchase several different but not lower than the stock. One thing I like is getting rid of the air box another hassle to get to the carbs, but they suck in the rain.

After spending a lot of waisted time on my FZ, it amounts to getting the bike throttle to accelerate smoothly out of a corner that important to me. There only so much you can do with the motor with jets kits, intakes and exhaust. Don't was it you fun time, better to ride.
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:59 PM   #76
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Interesting comments Falcon. Did they make a Skunk in '03?
As for your theory that the PO may've tried to fatten the mix, the clips were in the #2 groove. Wouldn't that have made the mix leaner?
As for the float setting being critical.... everything I've read has convinced me that's 100% true. I've decided to make the float gauge as detailed on Pat's page as that, IMO, has to be the easiest and most accurate method. I've got the materials in front of me to begin as soon as I post this.
Arts & Crafts time is about to begin.
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:11 AM   #77
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The Skunk was a US-only model, I believe, so I couldn't tell you when is was launched as my detailed knowledge of colour schemes is on UK models. However, 2003 sounds about right, IIRC from discussions here.

You're right about the higher e-clip groove position making the mixture leaner as a rule. My bad, I've done so many Ivan's installs that I automatically assume that 2nd position means 3mm spacer, so adding a 0.5mm shim to that combo does make for a richer mixture than Ivan intends with his kits. I should have been clearer in my explanation - and thinking

Stock Yamaha main jets on the FZ1 are 130 and 132.5. Ivan's slip-on kit uses 122.5 mains and his MB kit has 127.5 mains.
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Old 05-01-2017, 06:44 PM   #78
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Fwiw, the floats were at 14.5 mm. I buttoned everything up, reread the installation instructions and installed the carbs before running out of time. I'll reconnect the airbox rubbers if I get a chance tomorrow and get on with adjusting the cables and reconnecting everything else. Man, what a pita getting those carbs to pop into the manifolds!
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Old 05-06-2017, 01:55 PM   #79
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Well, it took longer to get back to working on the bike than I'd expected but the important thing is that its done and running. I'm thankful that I didn't have to adjust the TPS or synch the carbs. Both were within spec. It sounds great but I won't be able to road test it until the weather cooperates.
My next question is what is the best long reach 90 degree screwdriver to get for adjusting the idle mix screws?
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Old 05-06-2017, 05:26 PM   #80
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I have the bike master one. But in honestly it's easier to remove the carbs and do it, to get an actuate adjustment. Imo
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