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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > FZ1 Problems & Issues > Gen 1 Problems & Issues

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Old 06-18-2017, 08:49 PM   #21
longeze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccolin View Post
...in one specific condition, which is when i'm cruising at around 4k or 5k and punch it really hard. There's a weird flat spot until it gets to around 7-8k.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5lv View Post
...check out the EXUP.
The exup being out of adjustment or working improperly is a VERY common problem for Gen 1 bikes and I would check that out before continuing to search for a fix. I should have listed that at the front of my list.

If your Exup is working properly then you might consider this: The rpm band you now describe is the area of transition off the needle to the main jet(5000 to 7500RPM give or take). Just to be clear, when I said that "putting in a jet kit is not the fix for the problem", I meant that the problem you have can be fixed without installing a jet kit. Needing your carb serviced or adjusting the mixture is not the same as buying a jet kit. Will your bike accelerate faster with one - yes. Do you need a jet kit to make your bike accelerate smoothly from any rpm to red line - no. The thing is, that guys like Dale and Ivan have figured out the typical mixture requirements to get better performance if you've made certain modifications such as adding a Yosh slip on.

With that said, the question becomes: Do you want to spend $130 bucks(more or less) to buy a known working solution(properly sized jets & needles for your state of tune), pull your carb rack, install the parts and so forth OR do you want to try adjusting your needles first to see if that won't correct your hesitation? It takes me about an hour to pull the tops off my carbs while on the bike and move the needle positions in the slides and replace the tops. If you go that route, pull gently on the diaphrams while holding them up to the light to look for pin holes. If you see any light through your diaphrams, replace them.

If you have to change the main jet, you'll have to pull the carbs anyway. Rather than repeat the tuning procedure, just search on it. It's been described many many times over in great detail on this and other sites. While you're at it, remove your air filter after you've run your bike. Is it wet in there? If it is, then you could be experiencing reversion, in which case you might try moving your needle clips up 1 slot to lean things out a bit more and try that. As always, please let everyone know what you find so your experience can be added to the borg collective ) Don't hesitate to ask for more information if you need it... Good luck!
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:42 PM   #22
cccolin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5lv View Post
If this is your first gen1 Fz1 what you are experiencing could be normal. If you're used to something with more mid range it might feel flat until it gets to peak torque, which if memory serves is at 7400 rpm.

Also check out the EXUP.
no, as I said above, it's my second one but the other one was modded. Ivan everything and upgraded suspension. but I had a ZRX for a couple years between that one and this one, also a Superhawk.
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:46 PM   #23
cccolin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longeze View Post
The exup being out of adjustment or working improperly is a VERY common problem for Gen 1 bikes and I would check that out before continuing to search for a fix. I should have listed that at the front of my list.

If your Exup is working properly then you might consider this: The rpm band you now describe is the area of transition off the needle to the main jet(5000 to 7500RPM give or take). Just to be clear, when I said that "putting in a jet kit is not the fix for the problem", I meant that the problem you have can be fixed without installing a jet kit. Needing your carb serviced or adjusting the mixture is not the same as buying a jet kit. Will your bike accelerate faster with one - yes. Do you need a jet kit to make your bike accelerate smoothly from any rpm to red line - no. The thing is, that guys like Dale and Ivan have figured out the typical mixture requirements to get better performance if you've made certain modifications such as adding a Yosh slip on.

With that said, the question becomes: Do you want to spend $130 bucks(more or less) to buy a known working solution(properly sized jets & needles for your state of tune), pull your carb rack, install the parts and so forth OR do you want to try adjusting your needles first to see if that won't correct your hesitation? It takes me about an hour to pull the tops off my carbs while on the bike and move the needle positions in the slides and replace the tops. If you go that route, pull gently on the diaphrams while holding them up to the light to look for pin holes. If you see any light through your diaphrams, replace them.

If you have to change the main jet, you'll have to pull the carbs anyway. Rather than repeat the tuning procedure, just search on it. It's been described many many times over in great detail on this and other sites. While you're at it, remove your air filter after you've run your bike. Is it wet in there? If it is, then you could be experiencing reversion, in which case you might try moving your needle clips up 1 slot to lean things out a bit more and try that. As always, please let everyone know what you find so your experience can be added to the borg collective ) Don't hesitate to ask for more information if you need it... Good luck!

thanks. it's been doing it sort of randomly so I'm thinking it may in fact be some sort of clog in the jet. or maybe the exup. who knows. I'll look into those things and report back.
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:58 PM   #24
cccolin
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well, I've got about 2k miles on the bike now, I did about 300 today on the Front Range. Several times today it would hesitate, running but no power at all, at hard throttle off the line, and then kick in finally and run like normal. also, wonderfully timed while trying to pass in a dodgy spot, I hit the throttle in 4th and got nothing for a few seconds. Almost acted like a rev limiter except I wasn't anywhere near the top of the revs. At any rate, it's definitely not a flat spot in the stock power curve.
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:33 AM   #25
longeze
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What steps have you taken to this point to find the problem? Have you checked your exup for proper functioning as we suggested? Have you checked under the seat for anything that could be blocking the air intake intermittently? Have you replaced your fuel filter and checked the fuel lines for kinks? Post up with what you've done to find the problem so far & we'll offer further assistance, if you're still interested in fixing the problem.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:15 AM   #26
cccolin
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I haven't done anything. The bike is my daily transportation right now and I dont want to start digging into it and suddenly not have a vehicle. 98% of the time, it's totally fine. I'll look into the things that have been suggested soon and report back.
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Old 07-06-2017, 05:10 AM   #27
WDD
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OK - if you don't have the ability to open things up and work on it now, then suggest dumping a bottle or two of Sea Foam in the gas tank. You might get lucky and that will fix the problem for you.
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Old 07-07-2017, 05:53 PM   #28
cccolin
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I was thinking that actually, I'll do that. thanks.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:41 AM   #29
fzwhat
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You say 'randomly.' Everything that's been suggested here is possible, but there is another possibility (depending on how you mean 'flat spot'):

'Hard Acceleration' produces high pre-ignition cylinder pressures. That results in a higher voltage requirement to fire the spark plug. Marginal wires or a bad spark plug can behave perfectly well until the voltage requirement goes up - I had this issue on my '01 - it took forever to figure out. Crud at the plug boot was providing an alternate path to ground for spark current; when I accelerated hard enough and the humidity was high enough - that cylinder was (briefly) weak/non-existent. It didn't always happen, but was always at the same RPM/load when it did happen.
Jim
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:58 AM   #30
thumperjockey
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Sounds like a mixture issue due to elevation or aftermarket pipe. What's your elevation? When my carbs were stock, I had a huge flat spot at about 7k feet even with the stock exhaust. Ivans kit fixed it.
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:21 PM   #31
cccolin
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I'm at 5000 ft. Bike has a yosh.
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:13 PM   #32
ctfz1
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Some slip-ons make the flat spot more noticeable in my opinion. I had a Dyno run on my 01 when it was Ivanized. My 03 had a slip-on and came with Dyno run.
The 03 had a dip around 4500 rpm or so, about as you described.

The 03 had been sitting and I cleaned carbs 4 times before I was happy with it. Felt less "sharp" then the 02 I have now, but got better mileage.
The 02 has benefited from running carb/injection cleaner thru carbs. Stock pipe but feels stronger on the bottom and less affected by 4500-5000 rpm "dip."
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