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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > FZ1 Problems & Issues > Gen 1 Problems & Issues

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Old 04-07-2018, 12:00 PM   #1
Fz1_2613
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Did Eskort's Connector Mod - Battery still wont charge

Hey all,

I have a 2001 FZ1. It had the burnt OEM connector when I bought it.

I replaced the RECTIFIER and used the connectors from Eskorts Tek.

*Its possible that I mixed up the wires when connecting them back together!

I purchased a new battery and it worked for about two days. Now the battery is completely dead. I'm charging it now.

*EDIT*
1. I get ~12.5 at idle and 13.4 at 5k rpm.

2. I just tested the stator at 200ohms
The readings it gave me is 00.5 00.4 and 00.4
The manual states I should get a reading between .27 and .33

3. I tested the stator with the bike running and IT READ 0.0 VOLTS Turns out i had the multi-meter on the wrong setting. I actually get
18.5-20V at 1500 rpm
and
70-73V at 5000

4. the rectifier passed the multi meter test

*EDIT*

I soldered the wires from the RR to the Stator where the white connector used to be. What else could be causing the missing voltage?? could it be the starter relay??

Last edited by Fz1_2613; 04-10-2018 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Updated with more readings
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Old 04-07-2018, 02:06 PM   #2
Fz1_2613
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I just tested the stator at 200ohms

The readings it gave me is 00.5 00.4 and 00.4

The manual states I should get a reading between .27 and .33

Is this too far out of spec? It was way colder than 20 c, its about 40 degrees out

Last edited by Fz1_2613; 04-07-2018 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 04-07-2018, 04:24 PM   #3
killer5280
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https://youtu.be/5v2LtHlvcqI

Try testing the stator AC voltage.
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Old 04-07-2018, 05:44 PM   #4
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And check the stator resistance to ground on each phase, should be high out of range. That is where my stator was shorted.
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Old 04-07-2018, 06:36 PM   #5
Fz1_2613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer5280 View Post
https://youtu.be/5v2LtHlvcqI

Try testing the stator AC voltage.
How many Volts should it be with the motor running?
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Old 04-07-2018, 06:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by bradd View Post
And check the stator resistance to ground on each phase, should be high out of range. That is where my stator was shorted.
Thanks will do.
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Old 04-07-2018, 09:50 PM   #7
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There is another connector to look at. It's behind the triangular black plastic side cover on the left side. 3 white wires. I had mine go bad as well as the main white connector, overheated and corroded so that only 2 of the 3 phases were charging and the battery would die over a period of a month or so with daily riding.

I replaced both with Weatherpak connectors. Parts available from Del City, crimper on ebay. See this thread for the details.
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Old 04-08-2018, 08:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fz1_2613 View Post
How many Volts should it be with the motor running?
More than 20. Somewhere there is a thread where several measured at 70 volts at 5000 rpm.

Here is a link.

http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showpos...05&postcount=4
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Old 04-08-2018, 02:34 PM   #9
Fz1_2613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer5280 View Post
More than 20. Somewhere there is a thread where several measured at 70 volts at 5000 rpm.

Here is a link.

http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showpos...05&postcount=4
Thanks I just did this and the multi meter reads just 00.0 guess that means its time for a new stator...
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Old 04-08-2018, 02:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fz1_2613 View Post
Thanks I just did this and the multi meter reads just 00.0 guess that means its time for a new stator...
You had it set to AC voltage correct? Not DC. And you were measuring from phase lead to phase lead and not phase lead to ground? If you had the meter set to measure AC voltage, I would be really surprised if you got zero (0) volts on all three phase lead (A, B, C) combinations (A to B, A to C, B to C). Even a failed or shorted stator would make a little AC noise that the meter would see.
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Old 04-08-2018, 03:32 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
You had it set to AC voltage correct? Not DC. And you were measuring from phase lead to phase lead and not phase lead to ground? If you had the meter set to measure AC voltage, I would be really surprised if you got zero (0) volts on all three phase lead (A, B, C) combinations (A to B, A to C, B to C). Even a failed or shorted stator would make a little AC noise that the meter would see.
You are correct... I had the multi meter on the wrong setting ... Turns out I get 22-23 volts at idle. So if the stator is good... and rectifier is good and my battery is good how come i only get 11.9 V at the battery when everything is connected?
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Old 04-08-2018, 03:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grommet View Post
There is another connector to look at. It's behind the triangular black plastic side cover on the left side. 3 white wires. I had mine go bad as well as the main white connector, overheated and corroded so that only 2 of the 3 phases were charging and the battery would die over a period of a month or so with daily riding.

I replaced both with Weatherpak connectors. Parts available from Del City, crimper on ebay. See this thread for the details.
This one looked okay no obvious burning. Should i test is just like the other stator wires?
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:56 PM   #13
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Also make sure it's not shorted to gnd.
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Old 04-09-2018, 10:18 AM   #14
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Yeah, I did the rectifier mod and stator. Pulling the rotor was a PITA, it was so stuck on there no amount of trying to hook the outer holes worked. I had to grind down flat spots on it to get a standard puller on it and even then it came off hard. Hope yours goes better.
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Old 04-09-2018, 04:18 PM   #15
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Measure the resistance at the white connector under the side cover, that connector could still be the problem, could be heating up. And I still got voltage from my stator with a short to ground but the more load on it the less voltage it produced, and it kept getting worse.

I used Arkie's method of heating and cooling and taping with large bolt and pneumatic impact wrench and got my rotor off without damaging anything.
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Old 04-10-2018, 02:26 PM   #16
Fz1_2613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5lv View Post
Also make sure it's not shorted to gnd.
I did this and it passed the test.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bradd View Post
Measure the resistance at the white connector under the side cover, that connector could still be the problem, could be heating up. And I still got voltage from my stator with a short to ground but the more load on it the less voltage it produced, and it kept getting worse.

I used Arkie's method of heating and cooling and taping with large bolt and pneumatic impact wrench and got my rotor off without damaging anything.
I tested this connector and it seems fine.


What else can cause a voltage drop to the battery, what about the starter relay?
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:10 PM   #17
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Alright I fixed it! or at least implemented a band aid solution.

I implemented Yamarocket630's reccomendation to connect the power wires (red and black) from the RR straight to the battery. I used a 30A inline fuse on the red wire that goes to the positive battery terminals. Now I get ~14V at idle and ~14.5 at 5k RPM.

Here is the aforementioned mod:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/sho...=voltage+drops


Thanks everyone for your input!
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