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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance > Gen 1 Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance

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Old 02-17-2020, 06:13 PM   #21
wotnnc
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An even cheaper version is from Harbor Freight, probably came out of the same factory in China. With a 20% coupon, they're practically be giving these away. https://www.harborfreight.com/hardwa...ent-67554.html
Sounds cheap until you're out on the road with a fuel leak.
I have all these Chinese O Ring kits. There's usually something in there close but seldom exactly right.
Y'all use this stuff in your bikes if you want but there's no way it's going in one of mine.

Last edited by wotnnc; 02-17-2020 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:30 AM   #22
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Instructions

Has anyone used this web page for separating the carbs?

http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1carbremoval.htm

About 2/3s down the page, the Separating the Carburetors (Reverse the procedure for installation) instructions start.

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 02-18-2020, 03:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ORBlackFZ1 View Post
Has anyone used this web page for separating the carbs?

http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1carbremoval.htm

About 2/3s down the page, the Separating the Carburetors (Reverse the procedure for installation) instructions start.

Thanks,
Eric
Looks reasonable, but I'd only remove/rebuild one at a time. Start on the one side and work your way to the other
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:02 PM   #24
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Looks reasonable, but I'd only remove/rebuild one at a time. Start on the one side and work your way to the other
Chuck:

Sounds like a great idea. Do you know where I can find the size of the O-Rings? I spent the extra bucks and ordered them from Yamaha, but I think that I would like to make sure the correct size is in the Northern Tools kit.

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Eric
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:47 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ORBlackFZ1 View Post
Chuck:

Sounds like a great idea. Do you know where I can find the size of the O-Rings? I spent the extra bucks and ordered them from Yamaha, but I think that I would like to make sure the correct size is in the Northern Tools kit.

Thanks,
Eric
I just used the ones that fit.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:39 AM   #26
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Sounds like great advice! Do you know of any of the bike shops that sells the EZ Turn? Most of the Google references are related to aircraft sites. It looks like https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ezturnlube.php sells it.

Eric
I do not. I happened upon mine through a friend aircraft mechanic, so I've used it sparingly. When I need more I'll order it online as well, with shipping almost doubling the cost. Oh well, it is the cat's meow (for specific applications like this). Do it once, do it right.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:48 AM   #27
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FWIW, I've always just used Vaseline for any fuel or ATF O-rings, fuel injectors, carb parts, trans lines. You're just looking for something to lube it so it doesn't shred when you install it. Honestly spitting on it is probably enough.
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Old 02-19-2020, 10:49 AM   #28
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FWIW, I've always just used Vaseline for any fuel or ATF O-rings, fuel injectors, carb parts, trans lines. You're just looking for something to lube it so it doesn't shred when you install it. Honestly spitting on it is probably enough.
Chuck:

Spitting....that sounds like fun.

I have some Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray in the shop. That should work ok.

Eric
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Old 02-19-2020, 12:13 PM   #29
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I deal with o-rings just about daily on life preserving equipment, so I tend to go overboard in some cases. I'm just used to making sure components function to their highest reliability. At the very least, use a lubricant when installing, as Parker will tell you, that is by far the time when o-ring damage will occur.

It would suck having to tear a carb bank out and apart just for nicked o-ring. I should say, does suck. Been there, done that.

Personally, I don't like silicone on silicone o-rings because it makes them swell. That's not intended in the design. I do like the EZ Turn, as it will stay with the o-ring a very long time, not evaporating or washing away. Slippery o-rings are good o-rings.
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Old 02-19-2020, 12:44 PM   #30
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I wouldn't want to lubricate the O rings with something that might break down the questionable composition of that Chinese rubber, over time.
I have rebuilt the carbs on both my bikes. The 05 was done in 2017 and the 04 was done in 2018.
Neither had given the slightest problem nor had either been apart before, so I figured it was time to have a look inside them.
Everything I removed looked as good as what I put back, still haven't had a problem and intend to keep it that way.
I see no reason the OEM parts I used won't last as long as what was installed at the Mikuni factory if I am able to assemble these carbs with equal care and precision.
A tube of genuine O ring lubricant won't break most of us up so it worth taking a chance to save a dollar or two?
Not to me.

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Old 02-19-2020, 05:24 PM   #31
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A tube of genuine O ring lubricant won't break most of us up so it worth taking a chance to save a dollar or two?
Not to me.
Chuck:

Interesting article on Silicone Lubricant https://pressurewashr.com/silicone-l...ubber-o-rings/.

Looks like the grease or paste works better than the spray, due to the additives to make a spray, a spray.

This looks like a winner https://www.super-lube.com/o-ring-silicone-grease

So does this one, but it is more expensive https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-V.../dp/B001UHMNW0

Thanks again for the comments,
Eric
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Old 02-20-2020, 08:09 AM   #32
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Seems like it should work, however I'm surprised that silicone is recommended for natural rubber. Back in the old days I had some natural rubber brake lines in a British car and the previous owner had used silicone fluid which basically destroyed every rubber bit in the brake system.

This is all new to me, I've rebuilt countless automatic and manual transmissions, engines and other mechanical things with O-rings and until this thread I had never heard of "o-ring" lubricant, nor ever seen it referenced in a service manual.
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Old 02-20-2020, 09:26 AM   #33
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Chuck,

O-rings are fantastic and highly capable components, but only if the engineering behind it is sound. In most applications, as long as you use the components that were properly engineered for the application, all is good with not much to worry about.

However, questionable materials (China Freight parts), practices, and operating beyond design tolerances, may end with less than desirable consequences. Think back to January 1986. Not a fault of the o-ring, but operating outside design parameters.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_...enger_disaster

I had 247,000 (hard) miles on my first RX7 with the rotary engine, a 1980 model. Those o-ring side seals were fantastic.

Also, I tend to stay away from silicone lubes, as silicone has a fantastic way of migrating everywhere, and possibly in places it isn't desirable. At an aerospace company I used to work for, we actually shut down our space lab for two weeks for cleaning due to silicone contamination. The stuff can be a double edged sword.
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Old 02-21-2020, 06:38 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by ORBlackFZ1 View Post

The little spring tip is definitely a good one! I can't wait to try to get the spring back on. I am assuming that you guys have some tips on making sure the spring is installed correctly.

Thanks for the help. It is appreciated.
Eric
I just struggled with this springs. I did not know anything about them but i was able to get it back. Fine, small pliars and some luck is needed.

I was trying it one day and got frustrated, then tried it the second day and the spring went back at its place very easy...i swear i did nothing different
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:10 PM   #35
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Seems like it should work, however I'm surprised that silicone is recommended for natural rubber. Back in the old days I had some natural rubber brake lines in a British car and the previous owner had used silicone fluid which basically destroyed every rubber bit in the brake system.

This is all new to me, I've rebuilt countless automatic and manual transmissions, engines and other mechanical things with O-rings and until this thread I had never heard of "o-ring" lubricant, nor ever seen it referenced in a service manual.
Chuck:

Ok, that makes me feel better. Maybe the lubricant is for newbies that can't get the o-ring in without "nicking" it. Experienced people are better at getting the o-rings in correctly (they have had lots of practice). I am more used to getting wood joints to come together properly, than putting in o-rings.

Eric
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:14 PM   #36
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Also, I tend to stay away from silicone lubes, as silicone has a fantastic way of migrating everywhere, and possibly in places it isn't desirable. At an aerospace company I used to work for, we actually shut down our space lab for two weeks for cleaning due to silicone contamination. The stuff can be a double edged sword.
Ok, I am definitely listening....I will try to not make a mess and only keep the lube on the o-ring. Another reason not to use a silicone spray....

Eric
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:16 PM   #37
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I just struggled with this springs. I did not know anything about them but i was able to get it back. Fine, small pliars and some luck is needed.

I was trying it one day and got frustrated, then tried it the second day and the spring went back at its place very easy...i swear i did nothing different
Good advice...When frustrated, walk away and come back the next day...I can do that. I do it every time I measure twice and still end up cutting three times...

Eric
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Old 02-22-2020, 06:57 PM   #38
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Donít feel bad, I had my Ď03 carbs redone when I bought the bike in 2015. Same thing, changed all the o rings and gaskets while Ivanís kit was installed. It took a couple of years for the leak to develop. It was not spectacular like you but the bike would smell gas each time after a ride. Not enough of a leak to puddle but aggravating.
I finally had it fixed while there was other maintenance to do on the bike (tires and brakes). It was between the carbs too.
Now the bike really is a peach!
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:56 PM   #39
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Donít feel bad, I had my Ď03 carbs redone when I bought the bike in 2015. Same thing, changed all the o rings and gaskets while Ivanís kit was installed. It took a couple of years for the leak to develop. It was not spectacular like you but the bike would smell gas each time after a ride. Not enough of a leak to puddle but aggravating.
I finally had it fixed while there was other maintenance to do on the bike (tires and brakes). It was between the carbs too.
Now the bike really is a peach!
That is great to hear! My wife kept saying, go look at the new bikes, go look at the new bikes....Finally, I took her over to see what Yamaha had replaced the FZ1 with. She took one look at a 2017 FZ10 and said "Really? What is that?" Then she looked at a 2019 MT-10 and said "now I see why they call it a naked R1, like most naked things, it is ugly." I showed her the 2019 R1 that I had test road last fall and she said "That is a good looking bike..."

My wife has great tastes when it comes to motorcycles. So, I can't disagree with her, the 2019 R1 even looks better than my 2005 R1 did. Unfortunately, I don't do track days any more and the FZ1 is much happier on the street than my 2005 R1 ever was. So, I am looking forward to getting the FZ1 back on the street.

By the way, my wife bought a new 2007 Hayabusa in September of 2007 (without any of my influence). She saw it, sat on it and said lets make a deal! She is a keeper. She can't ride any more, so for the last couple of years, I have been putting miles on the Busa, while I procrastinated fixing the FZ1. The Busa is a fun ride, but weighs over 100 lbs more than the FZ1. The Busa's extra HP is nice in a straight line, but the FZ1 has better handling in the corners. I am looking forward to riding the FZ1 again. Hopefully, the Busa will go up for sale this spring.

Yamaha O-rings & O-ring lube have arrived, so hopefully, the next couple of days will be productive. Warm, dry weather is coming to the NW and I would like to be out riding my FZ1.

Thanks again for all your encouragement.
Eric
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:37 PM   #40
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Hi everyone:

I started taking apart my carbs today and I have a couple of questions. I am using this link http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1carbremoval.htm to separate the carbs and then disassemble each carb for cleaning in my Ultrasonic Cleaner.

1. Under "Separating the Carburetors" section the line says to "...Remove the fuel inlet pipe (8). I assumed that I had to remove the bracket that holds the Fuel Inlet Pipe from carb #2, since the fuel inlet pipe would not come loose. The large Phillips head screw came out fine, but the small one is beginning to strip and I backed off of it. I am using the JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) bits to work on the carbs (see second photo).

My questions are: Is there a trick to removing the fuel inlet pipe without removing the bracket? Any chance the Ultrasonic Cleaner will loosen the screw?

2. Under "Disassembling a carburetor" section "...Remove the starter plunger (1)" I assume that the starter plunger is where my yellow arrow is pointing (see first photo).

Can anyone confirm that for me?

3. Under "Disassembling a carburetor" section "...Remove the pilot air jet (2)". I am not sure where the pilot air jet is located. I don't see any jets on the air intake side.

Can someone give me a better idea of where the pilot air jet is? Is it behind the cover pointed to by the green arrow (see first photo).

4. I didn't find any instruction to remove the float bowel cover. Does it matter when I remove it? I assume before "....Remove the float pin (9)" instruction would probably work since the float pin is "under" the float bowel.

5. If I follow the instructions to the end, will the carb be ready for the Ultrasonic Cleaner or are the other parts that need to be removed?

Thanks for everyone's help in answering a NEWBIE's questions.
Eric
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