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#21 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Russellville, AR
Posts: 4,321
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Based on your desire for a manual transmission, I would make sure that the car listed in the ad actually has a real manual transmission. Dealers tend to list all sporty BMWs as having a manual transmission even if they have a shiftable automatic transmission. I've been looking at 335i online and over half of the cars listed as having a manual transmission are actually manually shiftable automatic transmissions when you look closely at the photos.
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#22 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: JimThorpe, PA
Posts: 186
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ZHP
There is no comparing a 36 to a 46, if you drive a 46 you wont want a 36.
I recently seen a 2004 330i E46 with the ZHP package, imola red, Automatic, 4dr loaded with NAV, 65K miles, it sold for $13900. I missed it by 1 day. That car is faster than an M3 E36, it goes 0-60 in 5.4 and not nearly the cost of an M3 E46. on ALL BMWs with VANOS - beware of the Vanos o-rings, need to be changed out to Viton o-rings, Water pumps - replace with metal impeller one, and window regulators - very common failures on those cars. Otherwise, like all BMWs be prepared to feed it tires, brakes, and suspension components fairly often. you wanted the ultimate driving machine, get ready to pay for it. Quote:
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#23 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Quote:
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#24 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Quote:
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#25 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: JimThorpe, PA
Posts: 186
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huh?
they all have the same steering racks, and they all weigh close to the same. What you were feeling was the difference in tires that were on the cars you drove, and the stiffer springs on an M car (the same springs as on a SPORT package 330) make the M car feel like it has lighter steering. because of the stiffer springs, you will replace control arms and tie rod ends every 50k miles or less. they will eat parts like no tomorrow.
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#26 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Quote:
I've seen zero comments on the e36 M forums or in any 'what to look for' articles about replacing control arms and tie rod ends at anything other than what I would consider typical 100k-ish miles. The cooling system parts are considered consumables on the e36 M (every 60k), but aftermarket kits that contain all the needed parts are $250 (including radiator). Other than that and a rigorous maintenance regimen, I've seen nothing on the cars 'eating parts'. The nice thing about the e36 M's is that almost all the wear parts are shared with the non-M, and can find them aftermarket and cheap. Not as true with the e46 M.
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#27 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Well, I just picked up a 1995 M3 with 88k mi. It needs a few odds and ends; shocks, front wheel bearing, gear for drivers electric seat, but I got it for a pretty darn good price. All original paint and body panels, no sign of rust, no signs of a drop of anything from underneath the car. Was being used as a daily driver and was garaged. All is good.....for now at least.
We'll see how this all ends up.
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#28 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Russellville, AR
Posts: 4,321
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Cool. Has it had any of the common E36 wear/problem areas addressed such as the original water pump with plastic impeller replaced? I replaced mine at ~110,000 miles. There were hairline cracks in the impeller, but it was still intact. The newer BMW OE water pumps use a composite impeller. That is what I have now.
I have had the Jim Conforti / Turner Motorsports intake and chip on mine since shortly after I bought it. That adds a few HP and makes the engine more lively. Seems to add a few MPG as well. |
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#29 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Quote:
Do you have the TMS 'stage 1' setup?
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#30 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Russellville, AR
Posts: 4,321
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The following link is similar to what I have, except mine had the ITG foam air filter element. Mine does have the larger 3.5" EURO HFM.
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-14...e-package.aspx |
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#31 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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A few quick pics.
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#32 |
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I got into RR's pants!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lake Balboa, CA
Posts: 15,887
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Looks clean!
-T
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- 2005 FZ1. Bruise, Racetech .95 springs, Muzzy S/O, Smoked ZGDB, GYTR bar lowers, Givi rack w/V46 & E36, fz1rules' sliders, CRG bar-ends, Galfer SS front. |
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#33 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Thanks Todd!
All the panels look original (BMW stamps VIN #'s on front fenders, doors, and trunk), and original paint! Drivers door as an area about 8"x8" where it's obvious there was a dent that was pulled by a rookie body repair person. Don't notice it 10' away.
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#34 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,342
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Nice!
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www.leanangle.com Current Bikes:2007 Yamaha FJR 1300AE | 1998 KTM 250 EXC | 1992 Suzuki Bandit 400 Past Bikes: 1997 Katana 600-wrecked | 2000 CBR600F4-Stolen | 2001 GSX-R600-Stolen | 1989 Honda CB1-Sold | 2001 Suzuki TL1000R-Traded | 1992 Suzuki Bandit 400-Sold | 2004 Suzuki GSX-R600-Sold | 2007 DR-Z400SM-Traded | 2003 Yamaha FZ1 I-Wrecked | 2003 Yamaha FZ1 II-Sold | |
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#35 |
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I got into RR's pants!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lake Balboa, CA
Posts: 15,887
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You made me start looking around, to see what these things go for. Stumbled across this nice looking '99 M3 convertible with only 67k on it for $8900. Downside is that it's an auto. And the plastic rear window they used in that era. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv...062455711.html
-T
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- 2005 FZ1. Bruise, Racetech .95 springs, Muzzy S/O, Smoked ZGDB, GYTR bar lowers, Givi rack w/V46 & E36, fz1rules' sliders, CRG bar-ends, Galfer SS front. |
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#36 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 7,626
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Nice find! But yea, the auto convertible's are the least desirable. Coupe manual's the most desirable. A solid car, coupe manual, well maintained, stock, no damage history, with refreshed shocks/bushings with say 100k mi, and the few 'weak points' taken care of, will easily demand $13k. And are hard to find.
Still, for $13k (I paid much less than that because of a short list of issues and it's a '95/smaller engine), you get a car that was named best handling car in ~97 against the likes of 1911's and Ferarri's, and can stick with a new Subaru WRX on accellaration. And they still don't look too bad for a 90's style. Of course I'm partial, I just bought one. Ask me again in a year.
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