Why I don't recommend Chain Wax

[RavenRider]

I used the product in the past but have not for a few years now.

I recommend Dupont - Teflon - White Lithium Grease.

Lubes very well, low fling off and doesn't get nearly as hard as the chain wax.

Not trying to start another chain lube war, just information.

I'm doing a complete Gen 1 rebuild and this was part of the clean up required.

[Desmo]

Never have that problem with WD40!

[jredford]

This cracks me up. I use chain wax - the owners manual recommends motor oil.

WD40 for the win.

[DPNonafiz]

Originally Posted by Desmo

Never have that problem with WD40!

agree.

[Fazer06]

ive seen that kind of build up on many bikes with a variety of different lubes. its kind of hard to get away from unless you clean out that area often.

[FZ1bill]

I do carb cleaner for that area once a year and chain has lasted 30k, yet I need to replace it soon.

[RavenRider]

What was pictured wasn't the half of it.

The area below the sprocket where the coolant line passes on the way into the lewer case was terribly caked.

True, other lubes will still build up to some degree, but this stuff came out in hard chunks.

Hmmm, case saver build up maybe. LOL.

[Dean Dinnetz]

Looks like somebody was over lubing the drive chain. I use Chain Wax, and never have that kind of build up in the area shown. I use just enough to coat the rollers, and that is it. I also lube the chain after a ride so the chain is still hot/warm, and i let the bike sit overnight, before i ride it again.
Dean

[TheRepairMan]

Oh, nevermind... I think the 2nd gen is shaft drive. That's why it won't wheelie.



I'd use the Dupont-Teflon white grease also, if I were to.

-R

[kjm]

Yup, been using the dupont stuff for a couple years now. Cheaper than a brand name mc chain lube works for me!

[Wlfman]

Originally Posted by Dean Dinnetz

Looks like somebody was over lubing the drive chain. I use Chain Wax, and never have that kind of build up in the area shown. I use just enough to coat the rollers, and that is it. I also lube the chain after a ride so the chain is still hot/warm, and i let the bike sit overnight, before i ride it again.
Dean

[Fazer06]

i use the chain wax as well. When i changed my front sprocket i dont remember it being quite that bad tho.... there was some build up but i would have to agree with Dean Dinnetz that someone was over using the product. i hate how expensive the stuff is. This white grease you guys are mentioning, is that like garage door track grease+ the last shop i worked in we had some white grease stuff we used on the over head doors, i cant remember what the name was tho.

[bonesFZ1]

I've used chain wax, chain grease. chaine lube of all kinds.
My thought is that it really only needs to be around the pivot point of the chain. These seals on these new chains are made to keep crud out of the pivot. Many cleaners can work its way beyong the seals and be detrimental to the life of the chain. An Enginneer buddy of mine did an experiment with his R1. He lightly cleaned it and lubed it twice in 13k with no issues. (he is a fast rider). He told me thyat modern chains do not need more than a gentle cleaning, the seal WILL work. This in mind, I always run a regular old shower towel with a deep knapp immediately after I apply my lube, and get everything off I can. Doing this cleans off everything but the pivot joints and leaves my bike very clean.
With modern chains, there is less maintenance than one my think. I realized, the less I messed with it, the longer it lasted.
When I first started riding, I scrubbed the chain with cleaner and degreaser every ride and ebded up ruining my chain.
YMMV!

[TheRepairMan]

Originally Posted by Fazer06

...This white grease you guys are mentioning, is that like garage door track grease...

Either of these...

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...n-chain-saver/



-R

[TJ 351]

Originally Posted by bonesFZ1

I've used chain wax, chain grease. chaine lube of all kinds.
My thought is that it really only needs to be around the pivot point of the chain. These seals on these new chains are made to keep crud out of the pivot. Many cleaners can work its way beyong the seals and be detrimental to the life of the chain. An Enginneer buddy of mine did an experiment with his R1. He lightly cleaned it and lubed it twice in 13k with no issues. (he is a fast rider). He told me thyat modern chains do not need more than a gentle cleaning, the seal WILL work. This in mind, I always run a regular old shower towel with a deep knapp immediately after I apply my lube, and get everything off I can. Doing this cleans off everything but the pivot joints and leaves my bike very clean.
With modern chains, there is less maintenance than one my think. I realized, the less I messed with it, the longer it lasted.
When I first started riding, I scrubbed the chain with cleaner and degreaser every ride and ebded up ruining my chain.
YMMV!

That experience is worth thinking about!
Maybe WD-40 is the answer, after all!

[Torchsport]

Just pulled my cover off, in preparation of a chain/sprocket swap.
Guess I better lighten up on the lube!

EDIT: I got almost 30K off the stock parts. Guess it wasn't too bad.

[flbusa]

Originally Posted by bonesFZ1

I've used chain wax, chain grease. chaine lube of all kinds.
My thought is that it really only needs to be around the pivot point of the chain. These seals on these new chains are made to keep crud out of the pivot. Many cleaners can work its way beyong the seals and be detrimental to the life of the chain. An Enginneer buddy of mine did an experiment with his R1. He lightly cleaned it and lubed it twice in 13k with no issues. (he is a fast rider). He told me thyat modern chains do not need more than a gentle cleaning, the seal WILL work. This in mind, I always run a regular old shower towel with a deep knapp immediately after I apply my lube, and get everything off I can. Doing this cleans off everything but the pivot joints and leaves my bike very clean.
With modern chains, there is less maintenance than one my think. I realized, the less I messed with it, the longer it lasted.
When I first started riding, I scrubbed the chain with cleaner and degreaser every ride and ebded up ruining my chain.
YMMV!

Obviously there's no need to lube the o-ring sealed pivot point of the chain but what about where the roller contacts the sprocket?

[Dean Dinnetz]

Originally Posted by flbusa

Obviously there's no need to lube the o-ring sealed pivot point of the chain but what about where the roller contacts the sprocket?

That really is the only place that needs to be lubed, on these modern o-ring drive chains. I forgot to mention, that after i lube the rollers on my drive chain, i put some WD-40 on a shop towel, and wipe the side plates off. Now that being said, i rarely ride in the rain, so the only water my 2002 FZ1 sees about 98% of the time, is water out of the end of a garden hose. After i wash my bike, i ride it a few blocks to help air dry the chain. Then i use a air nozzle, to help dry the complete bike and chain. Then of course, a quick waxing of all the painted parts. You get the idea.
Dean

[raylrider]

Chain wax every 500 miles whether it needs it or not. What is this clean chain of which you speak? Just shoot it while its warm. fz-1 new chain at 40000 and sprockets are fine, I have used four sets of tires so far to give an idea of useage. Mostly commute with canyons on weekends.

[RavenRider]

Originally Posted by raylrider

Chain wax every 500 miles whether it needs it or not. What is this clean chain of which you speak? Just shoot it while its warm. fz-1 new chain at 40000 and sprockets are fine, I have used four sets of tires so far to give an idea of useage. Mostly commute with canyons on weekends.

Hmmmm.........4 sets of tires in 40,000 and the sprockets are still good................sorry but not likely.

Either you are extra easy on both tires and everything else or you don't know how to check the chain and sprockets for weaar.

Not trying to flame you, but .............really.