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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 09-05-2010, 07:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Goat Herder View Post
Raising the forks in the clamps does help but it also makes the pegs lower to the road and they grind to soon unless that's your goal.
Any idea how much lower the pegs are than before? I figure it has to be less than 10mm.

Could the peg-down action be a result of greater confidence in the speed of turn-in and improved front grip?
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:46 AM   #22
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If you are doing RavenRider's mod, then you are lowering the front by ~1/4" and raising the rear by ~1", so the peg height should be slightly higher than before you started.
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:12 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Falcon 269 View Post
Any idea how much lower the pegs are than before? I figure it has to be less than 10mm.

Could the peg-down action be a result of greater confidence in the speed of turn-in and improved front grip?
I wonder how much lower the pegs will actually be. I mean, if you drop the front by x, it would seem that the pegs would only be x/2 lower since you aren't lowering the rear. In fact, if you raise the rear, it "should" equal out. I could and probably am completely wrong though.
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:09 PM   #24
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The pegs are so close to the rear wheel, it's probably more like 1/4 the distance you drop the front - which would be no more than 10mm, so 2mm or so?
..a
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:24 PM   #25
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why call it raising the forks when nothing is getting raised ?
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by DPNonafiz View Post
why call it raising the forks when nothing is getting raised ?
The forks are pulled up through the triple clamps, so the top of them is no longer level with the top triple clamp. You could argue you're really leaving the forks in place, and dropping the front end down, but it's really the same thing.
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:35 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by DPNonafiz View Post
why call it raising the forks when nothing is getting raised ?
The title of this thread makes it pretty clear: "Raising forks up through triple clamps (lowering the front end)"

..a
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:05 AM   #28
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1 1/4" lower Oneoff Dogbones less 10MM Front

2004 FZ1... Just lowered both front and rear as described....Much Better, lower CG, turn in quicker, Safer low speed maneuver...all good. Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:14 PM   #29
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Another thought - make sure you torque those clamps correctly (on Pat's site upper bolts torque to 30 Nm, 22 lb-ft, the lower clamp bolts torque to 23 Nm, 17 lb-ft)

However, after you do the second bolt on the bottom, you'll need to re-torque the first, then the second again. Keep going until they are both torqued correctly.

If you do one, then the other, and leave it, the first will be *way* too loose again..
..a
Another couple of things to add to raising the forks. The screw on cap is approx. 2mm, so if you want to raise the forks 7mm them measure up from the top triple 9mm; and make sure you measure in the same place on the triple for both forks. The easiest way I've found is to take a business card, measure out the distance you want on the card and mark it. That way you can use the marking for each fork and it pretty much makes sure both will be up the same distance.
Also, I loosen the axle pinch bolt and the fender so there is no chance of binding as you are moving the forks (you'll go too high, then not high enough, etc. and you're only doing one fork at a time so there could be some potential binding).
I also noticed that it seems that the brake lever had more travel after re-setting the forks, and the wheel did not turn as freely. Apparently there was some movement on the caliper pistons from the wheel/rotor being cocked as the forks were moved. Found that after getting the forks to the desired level that pulling the calipers and pushing the pads/pistons all the way in, remounting the calipers, taking the FZ off the centerstand, pumping the front end up & down several times without touching the brakes to align the forks, tighten the axle pinch bolt/front fender then pumping the brake lever to reseat the pads brought the lever travel back to "normal" and the wheel turned more freely. Want to get the fork movement and brakes as free moving as possible.
Maybe too anal for some, but it works for me. :-)
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:35 PM   #30
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Ok...I know this is a 4 years old topic but I am trying to do this mod right now.
So this is my problem : The upper triple clamp is all loosen (The two allens bolts and the big 27mm center bolt). What is the next step ? Do I need to loose the lower clamp and just raise the fork tubes trought the upper triple clamp and when I have my 8mm just tight every screw?

Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:41 PM   #31
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Ok...I know this is a 4 years old topic but I am trying to do this mod right now.
So this is my problem : The upper triple clamp is all loosen (The two allens bolts and the big 27mm center bolt). What is the next step ? Do I need to loose the lower clamp and just raise the fork tubes trought the upper triple clamp and when I have my 8mm just tight every screw?

Thanks!
1st, you do not need the 27mm nut loosened. I find adjusting the fork height easier to do with the front wheel removed. The forks a clamped in both the upper and lower triple clamps. So yes, you must loosen the allen head bolts on the lower clamp as well. This will allow the fork to slide up or down usually requiring a slight twisting action to get it to move.
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:40 PM   #32
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Depending on the tires, you may find 10mm too much and a bit squirrelly at lean and turn in. I ran 7mm with an older set of BT020's on the bike, and when I changed to a (steeper profile) BT014 in the front recently I found it a bit much and reduced it to 4mm, which I'm happy with. With the new low profile fat bars on the bike the turn in is amazing.....
That's interesting... I never never really considered dropping the front end a bit.

Might be worth a try.
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:59 PM   #33
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I'm no expert, but in simple terms, it does make the bike turn in easier..
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:10 PM   #34
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Not to be a smart asker but if you can't figure that both triples need to be loosened to raise the forks, put down the tools and leave it alone.

Really scares me how it could be so hard.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:25 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
Not to be a smart asker but if you can't figure that both triples need to be loosened to raise the forks, put down the tools and leave it alone.

Really scares me how it could be so hard.
:-) !!
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:32 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
Not to be a smart asker but if you can't figure that both triples need to be loosened to raise the forks, put down the tools and leave it alone.

Really scares me how it could be so hard.
Ward, don't be so hard on the Beaver! At least he is smart enough to ask.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:17 PM   #37
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Ward, don't be so hard on the Beaver! At least he is smart enough to ask.
True, but really, think about it a second. Does he have torque specs, loosened the center head bolt top nut.

Glad he asked but dude, get a shop manual in hand before you end up hurt or hurting someone else.

We go to great lengths on this board with talk about making changes to our bikes. With a shop I see so many bikes come in with stuff so botched up they are dangerous.
Please people, don't just jump in. Get a shop manual and some correct tools for the job. Just scares the heck out of me.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:17 PM   #38
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1st, you do not need the 27mm nut loosened. I find adjusting the fork height easier to do with the front wheel removed. The forks a clamped in both the upper and lower triple clamps. So yes, you must loosen the allen head bolts on the lower clamp as well. This will allow the fork to slide up or down usually requiring a slight twisting action to get it to move.
Thanks! This is the confirmation I was looking for! Everything went great and the handling of the bike is amazing with the combination of this 8mm drop and my Renthal 658!
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:26 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
True, but really, think about it a second. Does he have torque specs, loosened the center head bolt top nut.

Glad he asked but dude, get a shop manual in hand before you end up hurt or hurting someone else.

We go to great lengths on this board with talk about making changes to our bikes. With a shop I see so many bikes come in with stuff so botched up they are dangerous.
Please people, don't just jump in. Get a shop manual and some correct tools for the job. Just scares the heck out of me.
What a douchebag! Yes I got torque specs and I was just looking for a confirmation before loosing every clamps... Yes I'm an amateur but at least I try and I ask questions when I'm not a hundred% sure of the move to do...I'm not going to play in the suspension components of a bike if I dont feel safe to do it...Next time if you want to be as helpful as you were, just pass your turn...

Last edited by spectrum; 08-11-2014 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:53 PM   #40
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Hmmm....
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