Clutch Problem

[deck-it-out]

My clutch had severe dragging and gear select problems which I thought to be due to warped plates. I have since replaced all the plates and on testing the problem is slightly better but still not usuable. The mechanism appears to be working okay, adjustments within spec, the basket does not appear to be worn, anyone have any ideas what else to look for

Thanks

Phil

[High Lord Gomer]

Wow! That's a tough one.

1. You replaced both the drive and driven plates?

2. How much mileage on the bike? Year?

3. Other than dragging when in gear with the clutch fully pulled, does it behave properly otherwise? Does it slip any under hard acceleration?

4. How did the old plates look? Were the steel driven plates blue?

5. You said the basket was fine, how about the hub and pressure plate?

6. Did you make sure to put the #7 plate in first (link at bottom)? It has a narrower band than the others.

7. Did you remove the hub when you took it apart last time?

8. If all of the above are fine, I would then suspect the washers and bearings are either in the wrong order or worn/damaged. Those would be 12, 2, 19, 33, and 32.

One way to check to see if the basket was binding/dragging on the input shaft to the transmission would be to remove the clucth plates and pressure plate, put the side cover back on, fill with oil, and run it like that. If it feels like it is dragging any when it is running in gear with the clutch plates out, then the clutch basket is likely not spinning freely around the input shaft to the transmission.

A copy I made of the Yamaha parts diagram is:
http://www.themxtrack.com/Fizzy/Yama...sembly_Big.jpg

[deck-it-out]

Thanks for the reply, I may have the answer after speaking with Yamaha uk

There is apparently a core plug in the end of the drive shaft, if this is loose it allows to much oil into the clutch, hence making shifting difficult etc, the guys who did the clutch for me thinks he remembers it being loose, yet to confirm, will be stripping down tomorrow

Phil

[arkie6]

I have a friend with an '03 FZ1 that exhibited similar problems with the clutch not releasing properly. His mechanic told him that a plug had come out of a shaft in the center of the clutch. This plug seals an oil path and forces oil through the clutch plates. With the plug missing, the oil flows out of the hole in the shaft and little to no oil gets into the clutch plates resulting in quite a bit of clutch plate drag when the clutch is pulled in. His mechanic found the plug in the engine case and put it back in place (and maybe sealed it with something like blue Loctite) and he has had no more problems with it.

[deck-it-out]

Yes it was the core plug, now fixed as per above, many thanks

Phil

[aforrest4]

Do you know which part number was the issue? I'm having the same problem. Was it ROD, PUSH 1 5LV-16356-00-00 ? This is part number 20 on the Clutch parts section at http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[YZEtc]

Negatory.
#20 engages with #22 when pulling in the clutch lever, and is the piece that moves the clutch pressure plate.

I'd expect this plug to be shown under the TRANSMISSION diagram, but since I don't see it there, it probably ain't sold separately.

[aforrest4]

If you could tell me which shaft it is a part of, that would be helpfull. If I have to, I will buy a new shaft. I have been riding it this way all year & it's driving me nuts!

[YZEtc]

The clutch is mounted onto part No. 1 in that diagram: Main axle.

[Bewernick]

I know this post is about four yrs. too late, but... Transmission, Main Axle Assembly. I concur that the plug is sold with this Axle. If there's a way to get the chain off the sprocket this shaft might even come out without opening the crank case right up. (That would be too easy, wouldn't it?)
Anyway, I'm having the same issue. I thought a new clutch would cure this. It didn't. I'm going to open the clutch up again to look at the Axle.
I read a thread somewhere that suggested getting a 1/2" Al rod. Put it in a drill press and file/sand it down to 0.485". Cut about 1/2" length off the rod. Freeze it and heat the Axle shaft (heat gun). Secure using red Loctite. - I'm going to try this very soon to see if this indeed fixes the rough shift between 1st & 2nd.

[aforrest4]

I just went to an auto parts store and got a freezer plug for a GM motor and hammered it in with a punch and hammer.

[Falcon 269]

Originally Posted by Bewernick

I If there's a way to get the chain off the sprocket this shaft might even come out without opening the crank case right up. (That would be too easy, wouldn't it?)
.

It won't. You have to split the whole crankcase to get at the gear shafts for removal.

[arkie6]

The factory plug in the end of that shaft looks like a tiny freeze plug about 1/2" in diameter. I will try to get some measurements on the ID of that hole in the end of the transmission shaft later. If you can't find your plug for whatever reason, you could possibly find another plug of the proper dimensions or have a plug made out of aluminum by a machine shop to drive in the hole and then just lock it in place with some red Loc-Tite or equivalent.

[arkie6]

The ID of the hole in the end of the transmission input shaft is ~0.485", so a ~1/2" plug of some soft material should drive in or may need just a little filing/sanding to fit.

[aforrest4]

My plug is missing!
I have gone through all the parts and found that they have replaced the main shaft with a new part number 5LV-17401-00-00 (replaces 5LV-17411-00-00). I assume it is due to this issue. I'll be taking it back to the Stealer since I have already paid them twice to fix it.
But first, I'm having the suspension upgraded!
Now that I know it can be fixed. I have decided to keep it and put my trick parts back on it!!
I'll let you know how it ends!

[racer-X]

Man!! I just got through reading this whole thread. I have been having the exact same problem for months now. I went through all the same senarios too. I replaced ALL the plates, checked the basket, pressure plate and bearings and even installed a new cable. All to no avail. The dealer was no help at all.

Then I read this thread and it becomes painfully clear what an idiot I am!! When I pulled the cover to replace the clutch plates the plug was in the bottom of the case. I had no idea where it came from or where it goes. Niether did the dealer or anyone I knew. I finally just gave up and put it back together and of course the problem persisted. Now I have no idea where the little plug went, But at least I know how to fix the problem!!!!! You guys Rock! I wish I had discovered this forum months ago.

[aforrest4]

It worked!!!!

I found a 1/2" plug from a GM motor at Autozone did the trick! You are my new HERO!

I already have upgraded my suspension (should have done a long time ago. Will be my fist upgrade on my next bike!). I am in love with my baby again!

Now all I have to do is find a quick shifter kit & try to not get arrested. Man this thing is fast! Thanks again! You saved the marriage with my FZ.

[rswebscan]

Glad to hear you got it worked out.

[Sweeny]

I ran into the same problem with clutch drag especially when the bike was cold and in first gear and it was impossible to find nuertal at a dead stop. I replaced the clutch myself and found that half inch size button inside the housing when I took everything apart. Fortunately I didn't throw it away but after having the same problems and then reading these threads I reopened the clutch case, reinserted the plug where it belongs with some red Locktite and now everything is good again. Thanks for the info!

[chiltech500]

I am having similar problem though when warm. When I get back home after a ride I have to turn off the bike and put it in neutral by hand from first gear.

You guys rock as this is probably my problem also.